Volume-10_1902-1903.xml

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                     <pb n="116"/>
                     <div>
                            <p><title><name type="hotel" ref="Grand_Hotel">Grand Hotel</name> -
                                                 <placeName ref="#Naples">Naples</placeName> - <date
                                                 when="1902-11-26">Nov. 26, 1902</date>.</title></p>

                            <p>Sailed from <placeName ref="#New_York">New York</placeName>, <date
                                          when="1902-11-15">Nov. 15</date> on <name type="vessel"
                                          ref="#SS_Augusta_Victoria">SS. Augusta Victoria</name> - a
                                   most comfortable clean ship - with many pleasant passengers.
                                          <persName ref="#Woodworth_Mrs">Mrs. Woodworth</persName>
                                   of <placeName ref="#Rome">Rome</placeName> among them - and
                                          <persName ref="#Sawtelle_Gen">Gen Sawtelle</persName> and
                                   his <persName ref="Sawtelle_Mrs">wife</persName>, and <persName
                                          ref="#Munroe_Miss">Miss Munroe</persName>, old
                                   acquaintances from <placeName ref="#Englewood"
                                          >Englewood</placeName>. My big deck cabin with its little
                                   sitting room was charming. Summer seas and skies all the way.
                                   Arrived about 8 o’clock this morning - <persName
                                          ref="#Constantini_David">David Constantini</persName>
                                   meeting us. He has brought down from <placeName ref="#Florence"
                                          >Florence</placeName> some pictures, and a wonderful
                                   Madonna and child in ivory - French of the best period - things
                                   that <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> had
                                   bought on his recommendation some weeks since. A magnificent
                                   head, said to be by <persName ref="#Velasquez"
                                          >Velasquez</persName>, a monk by <persName ref="#Tura"
                                          >Tura</persName>, and two other pictures. This hotel quite
                                   empty. We get off tomorrow for <placeName ref="#Port_Said">Port
                                          Said</placeName> on the <name type="vessel"
                                          ref="#Princess_Irene">Princess Irene</name>.</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>
                                          <name type="hotel" ref="#Shepheards">Shepheards</name> -
                                                 <placeName ref="#Cairo">Cairo</placeName> - <date
                                                 when="1902-12-01">Dec. 1st</date>.</title></p>

                            <p>Arrived this morning very early after the most beautiful passage I
                                   ever had on the Mediterranean. The big ship most comfortable, and
                                   so interesting with its crowd of passengers from all quarters of
                                   the earth, going out to all ends of the earth. We had at our
                                   little table 2 Indian Princesses. The <persName
                                          ref="#Daleep_Singh_Princesses">Princesses Daleep
                                          Singh</persName> - from <placeName ref="#London"
                                          >London</placeName>, where they have always lived, going
                                   out to <placeName ref="#India">India</placeName> for the first
                                   time. They were pleasant and interesting, the older girl amazed
                                   us by telling us that she had been in <placeName ref="#America"
                                          >America</placeName> and studied Medicine for a year at a </p>

                            <pb n="117"/>

                            <p>college in <placeName ref="#Chicago">Chicago</placeName>. <persName
                                          ref="#Dewey_Eliza">Eliza Dewey</persName> got quite
                                   intimate with them. The first morning out from <placeName
                                          ref="#Naples">Naples</placeName> we passed <placeName
                                          ref="#Stromboli">Stromboli</placeName>, smoking violently
                                   - but the eruption was apparently over. I got out of bed to look
                                   at it - it being fortunately on my side. Had a long wait at the
                                   Custom House at <placeName ref="#Port_Said">Port
                                   Said</placeName>, but got our train and reached here at 5 o’clock
                                   - <persName ref="#Salah_Mohammed">Salah</persName> and most of
                                   our crew waiting for us. We are in our usual appartment looking
                                   on to the garden. <name type="hotel" ref="#Shepheards"
                                          >Shepheards</name> is empty - and indeed <placeName
                                          ref="#Cairo">Cairo</placeName> is said to be the same.</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title><placeName>Cairo</placeName><date when="1902-12-10">Dec.
                                                 10th</date></title></p>

                            <p>A busy week - the <name type="vessel" ref="#Beduin">Beduin</name> is
                                   ready, and we go on board tomorrow, we found all our friends
                                   here. The nice <orgName xml:id="Quibells">Quibells</orgName> -
                                          <persName ref="#von_Bissing_Baron">v. Bissing</persName>,
                                          <persName ref="#Weigall_Arthur">Weigall</persName>,
                                          <persName ref="#Newberry_Percy">Newberry</persName>.
                                          <persName ref="#Sayce_Archibald_Rev">Sayce</persName> et
                                   all. <persName ref="#Tytus_Mrs">Mrs. Tytus</persName> and
                                          <persName ref="#Tytus_Robb_de_Payster">Robb</persName>
                                   started up a few days after our arrival, expecting to reach
                                          <placeName ref="#Aswan">Aswân</placeName> in time for the
                                          <placeName ref="#Aswan-Dam">Dam</placeName> festivities -
                                   everybody has dined with us. <persName ref="#Weigall_Arthur"
                                          >Weigall</persName> presented one evening 2 friends of his
                                   - young officers in the 2d Rifle Brigade now here after 3 years
                                   in <placeName ref="#South-Africa">S. Africa</placeName>.
                                          <persName ref="#Stevenson">Stevenson</persName>, a cousin
                                   of <persName ref="#Dufferin_Lord">Lord Dufferin</persName>, and
                                          <persName ref="#Wilmot_Sir_John">Sir John
                                          Wilmot</persName> - nice young fellows. They dined with us
                                   afterwards. <placeName ref="#Cairo">Cairo</placeName> is
                                   absolutely deserted. If there is a season, it will be a very late
                                   one. It seems pleasanter than usual to me in <placeName
                                          ref="#Cairo">Cairo</placeName> - there being so few
                                   tourists.</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title><date when="1902-12-11">Thursday, Dec. 11.</date></title></p>

                            <p>Came on board this morning - South wind, and a crowd of people to
                                   tea. Found such lovely flowers from <persName ref="#Sandwith_Mrs"
                                          >Mrs. Sandwith</persName> and <persName
                                          ref="#Newberry_Percy">Newberry</persName>.</p>
                     </div>
                     <pb n="118"/>
                     <div>
                            <p><title><date when="1902-12-12">Friday, Dec. 12.</date></title></p>

                            <p><persName ref="#Hargate_Mr">Mr. Hargate</persName> joined us
                                   yesterday, and came up to <placeName ref="#Sakkarah"
                                          >Sakkarah</placeName> with us. We started at noon, in a
                                   fine north wind, and brought up at <placeName ref="#Bedrasheen"
                                          >Bedrasheen</placeName> in 2 hours!</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title><date when="1902-12-13">Dec. 13. Saturday</date></title></p>

                            <p>A very cold grey day. <persName ref="#Hargate_Mr">Mr.
                                          Hargate</persName> went back to <placeName ref="#Cairo"
                                          >Cairo</placeName> this morning and <persName
                                          ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName>, <persName
                                          ref="#Eliza">Eliza</persName> and I went off for
                                          <placeName ref="#Sakkarah">Sakkarah</placeName>. I in my
                                   donkey chair. The land is either covered with water from the
                                   river to the edge of the desert, or the water has just receded in
                                   places - making quite a novel effect for us, the conditions being
                                   the same as those between <placeName ref="#Cairo"
                                          >Cairo</placeName> and the <placeName ref="#Pyramids"
                                          >Pyramids</placeName> the other day, where instead of
                                   green fields, boats were sailing about on the water. The rise of
                                   the <placeName ref="#Nile">Nile</placeName> was so late this
                                   year, coming indeed when every one was quite hopeless and we
                                   doubted if we could get up the river - that now we get the sights
                                   of the inundation, and it is most interesting to us. The present
                                   condition is what prevailed in September. There was positively no
                                   colour today but in the palm trees - the beautiful vivid green
                                   fields through which we generally ride, were now under water, or
                                   the fellaheen were preparing the black mud, from which the water
                                   had receded, for sowing. It was too, the darkest day I ever saw
                                   in <placeName ref="#Egypt">Egypt</placeName>, without a gleam of
                                   sunshine, and a strong cold wind blowing, and I was uncomfortable
                                   in my chair, with no exercise to warm me. We visited the tomb of
                                          <persName ref="#Unas">Unas</persName>, <persName
                                          ref="#Ptah-Hotep">Ptah Hotep</persName>, and lunched on
                                   the terrace of <persName ref="#Mariette">Mariette</persName>s,
                                   with the dogs, and cats and doves and the cold wind blew the sand
                                   upon us. When we went to the</p>

                            <pb n="119"/>
                            <p>
                                   <placeName ref="#Serapeum">Serapeum</placeName>, the tomb of
                                          <persName ref="#Thi">Thi</persName> and <persName
                                          ref="#Mera">Mera</persName> - and came home glad to reach
                                   here.</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title><date when="1902-12-14">Third Sunday in Advent. Dec.
                                                 14.</date></title></p>

                            <p>A good, steady wind brought us today to our landing near <placeName
                                          ref="#Wasta">Wasta</placeName> - 40 miles. The benediction
                                   of an Egyptian full moon is now upon us - wonderful.</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title><date when="1902-12-15">Monday, Dec. 15.</date></title></p>

                            <p>Did not start until one o’clock - waiting for mail etc. Came 15
                                   miles. A beautiful day - sunset and night. A year ago today we
                                   were only 5 miles above <placeName ref="#Wasta"
                                   >Wasta</placeName>.</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title><date when="1902-12-16">Tuesday, Dec. 16.</date></title></p>

                            <p>Made 10 miles and are lying 3 miles below <placeName ref="#Benisoef"
                                          >Benisoef</placeName>, almost on identical spot of same
                                   date of last year. Beautiful day. <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore"
                                          >Theodore</persName> has a heavy cold.</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title><date when="1902-12-17">Wednesday, Dec. 17.</date></title></p>

                            <p>An impenetrable fog surrounded us this morning - light fitful winds
                                   during the day, trackings and pulling to an anchor brought us
                                   about half way between <placeName ref="#Bibeh">Bibeh</placeName>
                                   and <placeName ref="#Fashen">Fashen</placeName>. Very busy
                                   housekeeping and writing letters - 8 miles.</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title><date when="1902-12-18">Thursday, Dec. 18.</date></title></p>

                            <p> 26 miles. Sailed from eleven o’clock and passed <placeName
                                          ref="#Fashen">Fashen</placeName> and are <pb n="120"/>
                                   lying 5 miles above <placeName ref="#Maghaghah"
                                          >Maghaghah</placeName>.</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title><date when="1902-12-19">Friday, Dec. 19.</date></title></p>

                            <p>17 miles. Light winds until 6 P.M. passed <placeName
                                          ref="#Shekh-Fadil">Shekh Fadil</placeName> and are 7 miles
                                   above it. Four days ago we began writing letters for <placeName
                                          ref="#Minieh">Minieh</placeName> which we hoped to reach
                                   that evening - we are about 27 miles from it now.</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title><date when="1902-12-20">Saturday, Dec. 20.</date>
                                   </title></p>
                            <p>7 miles. We started out on an east wind that served us well where we
                                   were lying - and we got about an awkward curve. The wind then
                                   drew out ahead and we tied up about 12 o’clock - where we are now
                                   lying.</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title><date when="1902-12-21">Fourth Sunday in Advent. Dec.
                                                 21.</date></title></p>

                            <p>2 miles. Strong south wind all day - tracked at intervals.</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title><date when="1902-12-22">Monday, Dec. 22.</date></title></p>

                            <p>No progress - moved a few yards to better ground - a wide firm sand
                                   bank - and had a big wash - fowls all turned out.</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title><date when="1902-12-23">Tuesday, Dec. 23.</date>
                                   </title></p>
                            <p>No miles. Sent the Dervish across the country with our mail bag - to
                                          <placeName ref="#Minieh">Minia</placeName> - also for
                                   supplies - we had no meat - no butter - no yeast. He brought a
                                   great mail in the evening.</p>
                     </div>
                     <pb n="121"/>
                     <div>
                            <p><title><date when="1902-12-24">Wednesday, Dec. 24.</date></title></p>

                            <p>Again no progress. Our big high mud bank grows a trifle wearisome -
                                   but I am very busy, doing some of the things I have not had time
                                   for during the summer - wind still strong from the south.</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title><date when="1902-12-25">Christmas Day - Dec.
                                          25.</date></title></p>

                            <p>A very cold wind blowing - I was not outside a moment. Both our
                                   little stoves going - a rather dull Xmas. <persName ref="#Eliza"
                                          >Eliza</persName> much amused with the present giving to
                                   the sailors. At half past 3 o’clock the wind pulled about to the
                                   West, and we sailed to within 5 miles of <placeName ref="#Minieh"
                                          >Minia.</placeName> 19 miles.</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title><date when="1902-12-26">Friday, Dec. 26.</date></title></p>

                            <p>Reached <placeName ref="#Minieh">Minia</placeName> about noon - and
                                   started again at 2:30 tying up at <placeName ref="#Beni_Hassan"
                                          >Beni Hassan</placeName> at 5 o’clock.</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title><date when="1902-12-27">Saturday, Dec. 27.</date></title></p>
                            <p>A very cold night and morning - Thermometer down to 35 on my cabana -
                                   and 48 in my room! <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore"
                                          >Theodore</persName> and <persName ref="#Eliza"
                                          >Eliza</persName> went off to the tombs - I stayed and
                                   walked on the sand, hoping to get warm. They came back at nearly
                                   1 o’clock followed by <persName ref="#Garstang_Mr">Mr.
                                          Garstang</persName> who is working here at the tombs - and
                                   making most interesting discoveries. <persName
                                          ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theo.</persName> and <persName
                                          ref="#Eliza">Eliza</persName> are enthusiastic over what
                                   they saw. He came to lunch - found him pleasant, made 8 miles
                                   starting at 2 o’clock - and we suppose ourselves to be about 3
                                   miles of <placeName ref="#Rhodah">Rhodah</placeName>.</p>
                     </div>
                     <pb n="122"/>
                     <div>
                            <p><title><date when="1902-12-28">1st Sunday after Christmas - Dec.
                                                 28.</date>
                                   </title></p>
                            <p>6 miles. Very still until after 2 o’clock - when we moved off and
                                   reached <placeName ref="#Rhodah">Rodah</placeName> by 3 o’clock.
                                   Stopped for half an hour and the rest went ashore then sailed
                                   about 3 miles.</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title><date when="1902-12-29">Monday, Dec. 29.</date></title>
                            </p>
                            <p>35 miles. An encouraging day - we began with a light wind and
                                   finished at 5:30 having had a fine wind all day. Passed
                                          <placeName ref="#Melawi">Melawi</placeName> -<placeName
                                          ref="#Deirout">Deirout</placeName>, and are lying 3 miles
                                   below <placeName ref="#Manfalut">Manfalut</placeName>
                                   tonight.</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title><date when="1902-12-30">Tuesday, Dec. 30.</date></title></p>

                            <p>19 miles. A very fair progress- as we had no wind until 3 o’clock.
                                   Weather still cool.</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title><date when="1902-12-31">Wednesday, Dec. 31.</date></title></p>

                            <p>18 miles. No wind until noon - we reached <placeName ref="#Asyut"
                                          >Asyût</placeName>, found the gates of the weir open -
                                   river all one level - no boats about - the whole thing to
                                   ourselves. Found the <name type="vessel" ref="#Ishtar"
                                          >“Ishtar”</name> lying there - and <persName
                                          ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theo.</persName> and <persName
                                          ref="#Eliza">Eliza</persName> who walked to the P.O. met
                                          <persName ref="#Sayce_Archibald_Rev">Mr. Sayce</persName>.
                                   We started again at 4 o’clock - and are now 8 miles above
                                          <placeName ref="#Asyut">Asyût</placeName>.</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title><date when="1903-01-01">Thursday, Jan. 1.
                                   1903.</date></title></p>

                            <p>21 miles. Very light winds brought us to <placeName ref="#Gou"
                                          >Gou</placeName> tonight, passing <placeName
                                          ref="#Aboutig">Aboutig</placeName> about noon. We have a
                                   lovely young moon.</p>
                     </div>
                     <pb n="123"/>
                     <div>
                            <p><title><date when="1903-01-02">Friday, Jan. 2.</date></title></p>

                            <p>43 miles. We sailed more or less from 7 until 6 this evening and are
                                   tied up at <placeName ref="#Akmim">Akmim</placeName>. Stopped at
                                          <placeName ref="#Sohag">Sohag</placeName> for half an hour
                                   for mail. Day warmer. We are hoping the cold weather will soon
                                   leave us.</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Saturday, Jan. 3.</title></p>

                            <p>19-1/2 miles. Started at 7:30 and pulled up at 12:30 at
                                          <persName>Reisner’s</persName> Camp, nearly opposite
                                          <placeName>Girgah</placeName>. This afternoon
                                          <persName>Theo.</persName> and <persName>Eliza</persName>
                                   walked over to the camp. I declined going as a gale was blowing.
                                   They came back about 6 - not very enthusiastic, saying
                                          <persName>Lythgoe</persName> and <persName>his
                                          wife</persName>, and <persName>Mr. Mace</persName> would
                                   come over and dine - which they did, and we had a pleasant
                                   evening.</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Second Sunday after Christmas. Jan. 4.</title>
                            </p>
                            <p>21 miles. We started out with a very good wind at 7 o’clock which
                                   increased and we pulled up at <placeName>Balliana</placeName> a
                                   little after 9 o’clock. <persName>Theo.</persName> and
                                          <persName>Jones</persName> went ashore for the mail, but
                                   were soon back - and we were off again sailing finely - until
                                   about 2 o’clock in making the great turn over to <placeName>Gebel
                                          et-Tarif</placeName>, the wind was too strong and we had
                                   to pull up - and could not get off until about 4 o’clock. At 7
                                   o’clock we went with a tremendous bump on to the sand. I was
                                   lying half asleep in my room, and for a moment I thought the end
                                   of all things had come. We soon got off however and sailed until
                                   nearly 8 - when we tied up opposite the great cliffs of the
                                          <placeName>Gebel</placeName>
                                   <pb n="124"/> which are beautiful tonight in the moonlight. This
                                   morning we had quite a race with the big Rameses the Great. She
                                   was a long time overhauling us - and then we were neck to neck
                                   for awhile. Everybody on the steamer engaged in photographing us.
                                   Last night the gale was great - I could not sleep after 5 o’clock
                                   there was such a varied assortment of noises about my room.</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Monday, Jan. 5.</title></p>

                            <p>10 miles. Our aft sail was torn a little in the high wind of
                                   yesterday, but the men succeeded in mending it this morning
                                   early, and we were off at 9 o’clock - reaching Nag Hamadi at
                                   10:30 just as usual a little late for the bridge and had to wait
                                   until 2:30 to get through - but as we had a good wind, with all
                                   the river to ourselves, and no other boats, we sailed through in
                                   fine style. We came to grief near <placeName>Kasr es
                                          Said</placeName> just as we did once before, but happily
                                   this time it was not the rocks. Very cold today.</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Tuesday, Jan. 6. Epiphany.</title></p>

                            <p>20 miles. Between the wind and tracking we kept going until after 4
                                   o’clock - weather very cold but bright.</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Wednesday, Jan. 7.</title></p>
                            <p>26 miles. We started out at 8 o’clock - reached
                                          <placeName>Dendereh</placeName> at 11 -
                                          <persName>Theodore</persName> and <persName>4</persName>
                                   walked to the Temple. Off again before one o’clock - and sailed
                                   until 6 - warmer - beautiful - lovely moon.</p>
                     </div>
                     <pb n="125"/>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Thursday, Jan. 8.</title></p>

                            <p>25-1/2 miles. Reached <placeName>Luxor</placeName> at 5 o’clock after
                                   delightful day. Found the “Scarab” tied to the sand opposite
                                          <placeName>Luxor</placeName> - and
                                          <persName>Robb</persName> boarded us before we got to our
                                   moorings above the Castle - almost the identical spot of last
                                   year. The bank has changed however and is not so good and very
                                   high - only 2 boats beside our own here - one is the Scarab, the
                                   other the <persName>Mond</persName> dahabeah. Found our mail and
                                   good news. We all said as we drew up, we wondered if our friend
                                   the black dog Sakees, would find us out - and just after the
                                   lamps were lighted and we were seated about the table littered
                                   with letters and papers, we heard his well known bark - and very
                                   soon his shrieks of delight, and going to the window I saw in the
                                   bright moonlight Sakees jumping about <persName>Jones</persName>
                                   and crying with delight. We made the distance from
                                          <placeName>Cairo</placeName> this year in the same number
                                   of days we did last year! only arriving on the 7th, starting one
                                   day earlier.</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Friday, Jan. 9.</title></p>

                            <p><persName>Theodore</persName> and <persName>Eliza</persName> went to
                                   Karnak this morning - we went this afternooon to the Scarab for
                                   tea, and to hear the news. The warmest day we have had.</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Saturday, Jan. 10.</title></p>

                            <p>A lovely cool day. Theo. and Eliza went to the Luxor Temple this
                                   morning - and we all went over to Carters this afternoon to have
                                   tea with him - he having been in a moment this morning. It was so
                                   good <pb n="126"/> to be taking that familiar ride again, on that
                                   nicest of all donkeys “Yankee Doodle, Plymouth Rock” who has
                                   carried me every winter for 5 years. But how sad we found these
                                   wide fields which are generally so green and flourishing - now
                                   utterly bare, and desert, because of the late Nile. We saw at
                                          <persName>Carters</persName>, the two wonderful leathern
                                   aprons that he found in the tomb he opened last year for Theodore
                                   - the most wonderful I have seen in Egypt. Poor little San Toy,
                                          <persName>Carter’s</persName> young donkey, in whose
                                   education and development we all took such an interest, met his
                                   death in a tragic way this summer. He was wandering about the
                                   drive, when he encountered a cobra, and was dead in 3 hours,
                                   bitten in the mouth. The men called <persName>Carter</persName>,
                                   who went out with his gun and blew the cobra to pieces - but the
                                   donkey was already swaying about on his legs and nothing could
                                   save him. He used to go through the house looking for
                                          <persName>Carter</persName>, and when he found him he
                                   would bray with delight. <persName>Dr. and Mrs.
                                          Campbell</persName> dined with us this evening, and
                                          <persName>Mr. and Mrs. Murch</persName>, and <persName>Dr.
                                          Budge</persName> called. <persName>Mr. Insinger</persName>
                                   sent down some flowers - he, poor man, has been very ill for some
                                   weeks.</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Jan. 11. 1st Sunday after Epiphany. </title></p>
                            <p>A quiet day - <persName>Dr. Budge</persName> came to dine - he was
                                   very interesting and amusing - and talked from the time we sat
                                   down to dinner, until after eleven when he went home. All his
                                   talk was upon his experience in
                                          <placeName>Mesopotamia</placeName>. He said such an
                                   amusing thing of <persName>Petrie</persName> - some years ago he
                                          (<persName>Budge</persName>) was in Egypt, and
                                          <persName>Petrie</persName> joined him and his friends
                                   somewhere along the river, after a journey of some days in a
                                   native <pb n="127"/> boat. “He was dirty, verminous, and saving
                                   your presence, Madame, as odouriferous as a pole cat.”</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Monday, Jan. 12.</title></p>

                            <p>Into town this morning - and home this afternoon. <persName>Miss
                                          Buchanan</persName> and <persName>Nubawiya</persName> came
                                   and had tea with me. What a pleasant surprise to see that girl -
                                   her improvement - and her changed surroundings. She has grown -
                                   is stouter - and <persName>Miss Buchanan</persName> can hardly
                                   say enough in praise of her. The Istar has arrived I had a note
                                   from <persName>Mr. Sayce</persName> this afternoon.</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Tuesday, Jan. 13.</title></p>

                            <p>A long day at the <placeName>Tombs of the Kings</placeName> - and a
                                   pleasant one. I went in my chair with 2 good donkeys. We entered
                                          <persName>Amenhotep’s</persName> (II) tomb - now lighted
                                   with electricity, showing arrangement and decoration
                                   delightfully. The rifled mummy has been restored to his
                                   sarcophagus, and decently wrapped with the torn mummy cloths -
                                   and <persName>Carter</persName> has arranged the whole thing most
                                   artistically. A shaded electric light is at the head of the
                                   sarcophagus, throwing the fine face into splendid relief - and
                                   when all the other lights were extinguished, the effect was
                                   solemn and impressive. <persName>Carter</persName> has done
                                   wonderful work over there in a dozen different ways - all the
                                   tombs, the principal ones, are lighted - no more stumbling about
                                   amongst yawning pits and rough stair cases, with flickering
                                   candles dropping wax all over one.</p>

                     </div>
                     <pb n="128"/>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Wednesday, Jan. 14.</title></p>

                            <p>Went in to <placeName>Luxor</placeName> this morning - first to
                                          <persName>Dr. Murches</persName> - then to see
                                          <persName>Miss Buchanan</persName> at the Girls School.
                                   She took us about everywhere even to the tops of the house where
                                   the kitchen is - and showed us the bakery - and told us how the
                                   girls made the bread. I stayed at home in the afternoon - to
                                   enjoy the quiet and the lovely effects on the mountains -
                                          <persName>Mr. Choate</persName> called.</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Thursday, Jan. 15.</title></p>

                            <p>A good warm day - <persName>Baron v. Bissing</persName> arrived from
                                          <placeName>Luxor</placeName>. <persName>Mr.
                                          Spring-Rice</persName> here for tea.</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Friday, Jan 16.</title></p>

                            <p>We went up to the Castle to see poor <persName>Mr.
                                          Insinger</persName> whom we found stretched out upon a
                                   lounge in the garden, looking a very ghost. He was not allowed to
                                   speak much, and so we went into the house and talked to
                                          <persName>Mrs. I</persName>. who poured out all her woes
                                   and anxieties to me, poor thing. I do feel sorry for that man!
                                          <persName>Mr. Spring-Rice</persName> and
                                          <persName>Carter</persName> here for lunch - and
                                          <persName>Theo.</persName> and <persName>Eliza</persName>
                                   went across to see some of the private tombs - and I went to the
                                   “Scarab” for <persName>Mrs. Tytus</persName> and we went to have
                                   tea with <persName>Mr. Sayce</persName> - going back afterwards
                                   for the others to the Scarab - <persName>Mr. Sayce</persName> and
                                          <persName>Mr. Brice</persName> dined here. It is very
                                   extraordinary the continued absence of wind. We want to start for
                                          <placeName>Aswân</placeName> tomorrow if we can get a
                                   breath of wind. <persName>Mr. Sayce</persName> has been preaching
                                   all winter that we would not have north wind - and it does look
                                   like it.</p>
                     </div>
                     <pb n="129"/>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Saturday, Jan. 17.</title></p>

                            <p>We started at noon today in the merest zephyr - and managed by
                                   tracking to get within a mile of Erment.
                                          <persName>Salah</persName> is behind us with his dahabeah
                                   and French family. 8 miles.</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Sunday, Jan 18. 2d Sunday after Epiphany. </title></p>
                            <p>30 miles. To our surprise and deep satisfaction the wind came gently
                                   up about 10 o’clock and growing stronger, blew steadily - and we
                                   tied up 4 miles above <placeName>Esna</placeName> at 7 o’clock.
                                   We had intended seeing the Temple, but could not afford to lose
                                   such a wind. A great excitement after leaving
                                          <placeName>Esna</placeName> - a ferry-boat collided with
                                   us - no damage done - though it looked serious for a moment.
                                   Quite warm.</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Monday, Jan. 19.</title></p>

                            <p>67 miles! We started at 6:30 - the N. wind blew all night and has
                                   continued all day. We have done splendidly making our best Nile
                                   record. We tied up at 6 o’clock just a mile below <placeName>Kom
                                          Ombos</placeName>. To our surprise
                                          <persName>Salah’s</persName> boat has kept near us all day
                                   - and is now just behind us.</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Tuesday, Jan. 20. Aswân.</title></p>

                            <p>26-1/2 miles. Started at 7 o’clock - arrived at
                                          <placeName>Aswân</placeName> at 12 o’clock. The wind
                                   having become so violent, that we had to furl both sails, and put
                                   up the felucca one. The air was thick with sand, and <pb n="130"/>
                                   <placeName>Aswân</placeName> invisible - so we pulled up just
                                   below the town - where we are now lying - just 3 days from Luxor
                                   - our best record for this journey. Very cold - both of our
                                   stoves going most of the time.</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Wednesday, Jan. 21.</title></p>
                            <p> We all started for the <placeName>Grenfell tombs</placeName> this
                                   morning and to reconnoiter the river for a good place. The wind
                                   was cold indeed. The rest climbed the hill - but I remained in
                                   the felucca below, and wrote a letter and basked in the sun.
                                          <persName>Carter</persName> appeared unexpectedly while we
                                   were at breakfast, and announced the thrilling news that he had
                                   found the tomb of <persName>Thothmes IV</persName> and that he
                                   and <persName>Robb Tytus</persName> went into it - finding a
                                   splendid sarcophagus, beautiful wall decorations and floor strewn
                                   with blue pottery more or less broken etc. This is a fine success
                                   both for <persName>Theo</persName>. and for
                                          <persName>Carter</persName> and <persName>Theo.</persName>
                                   immediately decided that instead of staying here a week, he would
                                   make it 3 days.</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Thursday, Jan. 22.</title></p>
                            <p>Went over by rail to <placeName>Philae</placeName> and saw it in its
                                   wonderful metamorphosis -surrounded by water - only the temple of
                                   Isis dry and approachable - in the great waste of waters the
                                   palms trees were showing their heads, and scattered temples and
                                   rocks. Pharaoh’s Bed standing alone - the water half way up the
                                   columns - our first surprise was the appearance of the water
                                   almost into the desert - the village of
                                          <placeName>Shellal</placeName> had entirely disappeared.
                                   We took one of the Cataract boats, <pb n="131"/> and rowed about
                                   down the long colonnades submerged almost to their capitals - and
                                   then past Pharaoh’s Bed and landed from the boat at the very door
                                   sill of the <placeName>Temple of Isis</placeName>. We could walk
                                   about in the temple itself, but the court was many feet under
                                   water. We spent most of the 2 hours we had there on the Roof,
                                   looking at the strangely changed country. Got home in time for
                                   luncheon: at 2:30 we crossed over to the <name type="hotel"
                                          >Cataract Hotel</name>
                                   <persName>Theo.</persName> and <persName>Eliza</persName> took
                                   donkeys, <persName>v. Bissing</persName> and I a really
                                   comfortable victoria, with broad tired sand wheels, and went to
                                   the Barrage. It was cold and dusty, with a high wind. At the
                                   Barrage we took one of the little trolley cars, and met
                                          <persName>Mr. May</persName> the Superintendent and rode
                                   across the Barrage - stopping here and there to inspect certain
                                   things. It is the most stupendous work of man I have ever seen. A
                                   mighty creation in solid stone which is now holding up a lake of
                                   water that extends to <placeName>Korosko</placeName> 120 miles
                                   away! Eight of the sluices were open, through which the water
                                   raged through like Niagara. The Cataract is a thing of the past -
                                   the water lying in quiet pools among the rocks. It was an
                                   altogether remarkable thing. It was pleasant to reach home - its
                                   shelter and cleanliness and refreshing tea. <persName>Dr.
                                          Cait</persName> came over and had tea with us - and
                                          <persName>Carter</persName> returning from <placeName>Kom
                                          Ombo</placeName>, dined with us.</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Friday, Jan. 23.</title></p>

                            <p>At home all day. A high north wind blowing and much dust - and the
                                   outside of the boat in great confusion, the big boom coming down,
                                   and all that business - the men with all they could get to help
                                          <pb n="132"/> them, worked until late in the afternoon.
                                   The rest went over to the <placeName>convent St.
                                          Simeon</placeName> - <persName>Mrs. Cox</persName> and her
                                   daughter called - and two German friends of <persName>v.
                                          Bissing</persName> came to tea - nice young fellows -
                                   awfully shy about their English. We hope to start down tomorrow.
                                   But the north wind still holds.</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Saturday, Jan. 24. </title></p>
                            <p>Went over to the <name type="hotel">Cataract Hotel</name> this
                                   morning early to see the <persName>Barnet Wendles</persName> -
                                   then walked into <placeName>Aswân</placeName> - hurried home, as
                                   the wind was falling with signs of change. Started about 2
                                   o’clock - very quiet, with signs of rain - and very warm. Are
                                   now, within 14 miles of <placeName>Kom Ombo</placeName> - having
                                   made 12 miles.</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Sunday, 3d after Epiphany. </title></p>
                            <p>29 miles. Light head winds or calm all day - and warmer - reached
                                          <placeName>Silsilis</placeName> at 11 o’clock and went up
                                   to the Temple - were off again by one - and are now at
                                          <placeName>Silsilis</placeName> - and will wait tomorrow
                                   until <persName>Eliza</persName> and <persName>v.
                                          Bissing</persName> have seen it.</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Monday, Jan. 26.</title></p>

                            <p>4 miles. A difficult day - with strong n. wind - have made I suppose
                                   4 or 5 miles since leaving <placeName>Silsilis</placeName>.</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Tuesday, Jan. 27.</title></p>

                            <p>We have only made a few yards today - the wind has been very <pb
                                          n="133"/> high - and it was impossible to stay out in the
                                   stream. The Zenet-el-Nil, and the Istar, passed up this
                                   afternoon.</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Wednesday, Jan. 28.</title></p>

                            <p>4 miles. We suppose we may have moved on about 4 miles. But the wind
                                   has been savage all the afternoon - and very cold. This north
                                   wind has now been raging since the 17th, every day we hope it may
                                   blow itself out.</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Thursday, Jan. 29.</title></p>

                            <p>22 miles. arrived at <placeName>Edfou</placeName> at 10:30 in a light
                                   wind - having started very early. We climbed the steep bank, and
                                   had the usual skirmish with the disagreeable
                                          <placeName>Edfou</placeName> people, took donkeys and went
                                   to the Temple. <persName>Carter</persName> has been doing some
                                   very important engineering work there - the great stones of the
                                   roof having become very unsettled and one having fallen - I had
                                   the most charming donkey I ever mounted - every pace was good. I
                                   should like to own him - we have come about 5 miles below
                                          <placeName>Edfou</placeName> - cold.</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Friday, Jan. 30.</title></p>

                            <p>8 miles. Began rowing before daylight - about 9 o’clock we were
                                   forced to the bank by the raging wind, where we still lie.
                                          <placeName>El Kab</placeName> is in plain sight.</p>
                     </div>
                     <pb n="134"/>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Saturday, Jan. 31.</title></p>

                            <p>20 miles. Started at 6 A.M. and pulled up here -
                                          <placeName>Esna</placeName> - about 8 o’clock P.M. Rather
                                   warmer today. I have spent the whole day on deck - the air has
                                   been so fine - and the cliffs and mountains are superb, and with
                                   such colouring - and so much of the native life to be seen along
                                   the shore. While watching through the glass a fine herd of goats
                                   and sheep, and thinking of the old Biblical characters, I saw a
                                   real picture - sitting under the lee of a straw barrier of a
                                   shadoof, was an old man with a white beard, who was stripped to
                                   the waist, looking through his two garments for unpleasant
                                   intruders, by his side a basket, a bowl and a stick - having
                                   finished his search he put on first one and then the other
                                   garment, stood up, shook himself well into their loose folds,
                                   then sat down again and with great composure resumed his
                                   occupation, and I then saw that he was making a fishing net. It
                                   was like a picture out of <persName>Kim</persName>.</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Sunday, Feb. 1st.</title></p>

                            <p>34-1/2 miles. We started before 5 o’clock in a most discouraging head
                                   wind, but with the aid of our board along at times until about 10
                                   o’clock, when the men were able to take to their oars, and they
                                   worked manfully until at 8 o’clock, we brought up at
                                          <placeName>Luxor</placeName>, near the sand banks.
                                          <persName>Bob Tytus</persName> arrived almost before we
                                   stopped having been on the watch. He reported
                                          <persName>Maspero</persName> still waiting for us to open
                                   the tomb of <persName>Thothmes IV</persName> and
                                          <persName>Carter</persName> very anxious for our arrival.
                                   The day has been heavenly - and I have been on deck the whole of
                                   it.</p>
                     </div>
                     <pb n="135"/>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Luxor. Feb. 2.</title></p>

                            <p>I have had a beautiful day at home. <persName>Newberry</persName> and
                                          <persName>Carter</persName> came in for a few moments
                                   after breakfast. Theo. <persName>Eliza</persName> and
                                          <persName>v. Bissing</persName> went over to the
                                          <placeName>Palace</placeName> and stopped for tea at
                                          <persName>Carters</persName> - where they were shown the
                                   foundation deposits bearing the name of
                                          <persName>Ma-ka-ra</persName>, found by
                                          <persName>Carter</persName> the day before at the digging
                                   near the tomb which he had suspected might be hers. Work has been
                                   stopped there - until the tomb of <persName>Thothmes</persName>
                                   has been finished. It is to be opened tomorrow.</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Tuesday, Feb. 3d.</title></p>

                            <p>We started over early to the Valley of the Tombs of the Kings - I in
                                   my chair with my donkeys - all went very well - the day was cool
                                   and bright - and the ride was charming. Fortunately none of the
                                   Cookites were there, and we had the whole place to ourselves. We
                                   took <persName>Mrs. Tytus</persName> with us, and we found there
                                   quite a little company - <persName>M. Maspero</persName>, with
                                   two French friends of his, <persName>M. Legrain</persName>,
                                          <persName>M. Lacken</persName>, <persName>Mr.
                                          Mond</persName>. (pencil note in margin referring to
                                   Lacken) A crowd of Arab boys and men, still handing up baskets of
                                   stones and débris. <persName>Carter</persName> was not to be
                                   seen, he had been down in the tomb since 4 o’clock having slept
                                   before it, with his guards. We waited about half an hour, when he
                                   emerged looking like a ghost - his careful man was waiting for
                                   him with a thick ulster, which he clapped upon him, and he was
                                   given some water and a cigarette. Then he went down again, saying
                                   he would be up in half an hour for us. He took
                                          <persName>Newberry</persName> and <persName>Robb
                                          Tytus</persName> with him. Finally he appeared again and
                                   said we would enter a few at a time, and asked <persName>M.
                                          Maspero</persName>
                                   <persName>Theo</persName>. and myself to follow him, and</p>

                            <pb n="136"/>

                            <p><persName>Jones</persName> went along to take care of me. A huge rope
                                   had been carried in, one end held by several workmen outside, and
                                   the electrical engineer with a coil of electric wire had preceded
                                   us, - holding to the rope, and with <persName>Jones</persName> to
                                   take care of me, I followed <persName>Maspero</persName> and
                                          <persName>Theo</persName>. 20 ft. or more down an almost
                                   perpendicular incline over large loose chips of sandstone. Then
                                   we came to a long incline very steep, and most unpleasantly low,
                                   so that we were forced to sit down and scramble along as best we
                                   could. <persName>Maspero</persName> being so stout had to
                                   actually lie down, with his feet sometimes on
                                          <persName>Carter</persName>’s shoulders. It was a great
                                   consolation to have the brilliant electric light. At the end of
                                   this shaft we came to the great well, over which
                                          <persName>Carter</persName> had arranged a suspension </p>

                            <!--NEED TO INSERT DIAGRAM OF TOMB HERE-->

                            <p><title>Plan of tomb of Thothmes IV </title></p>
                            <pb n="137"/>
                            <p>bridge and requested only two people should cross at a time. This
                                   well was about 15 ft. square - then we emerged into a hall
                                   supported by two pillars. There was a beautiful decoration of
                                   gods and goddesses and emblems around the top of the walls of the
                                   well, quite fresh and perfect. From this hall we scrambled down
                                   another steep shaft, and came into a small hall partially choked
                                   with débris, the walls beautifully painted and a most interesting
                                   hieratic inscription, which reads as follows.</p>

                            <p>“In the eighth year of King <persName>Horemheb</persName>, on behalf
                                   of the King, Thothmes son of Hator came as overseer to restore
                                   the wrappings etc. in the splendid place in the West hill”.
                                   Scrambling out of this room we entered the sepulchral hall, which
                                   opens at a right angle to the small hall, and runs parallel to
                                   the entrance shaft. This hall has 6 columns, and 2 chapels on
                                   either side. There were no wall decorations here - but the floor
                                   of the hall and of the chapels was strewn with a mass of
                                   beautiful débris - most of it alas broken. Carter had placed
                                   boards along which we walked, and were requested not to step off
                                   of them. It was astounding to look at the mass of things -
                                   statuettes - figures of animals - fragments of embroideries -
                                   leather work - and countless bottles and ornaments of heavenly
                                   blue colour, and the well known Amenhotep glass. In one place a
                                   charming alabaster face looked up smilingly at me, as if to
                                   welcome our coming - of course no one touched any object. The
                                   sarcophagus was magnificent of rose quartzite, covered with
                                   admirable inscriptions - and in perfect preservation - the</p>

                            <pb n="138"/>

                            <p>lid had been removed and carefully laid at the side of it. But the
                                   crowning object of interest was the dash board of a war chariot,
                                   of leather, beautifully embossed and painted on both sides - in
                                   shape like this [insert drawing here] - representing the King
                                   driving over prostrate enemies. Maspero was delighted with this,
                                   as it is absolutely unique. We could not linger long anywhere as
                                   the place was so hot, and we had to move on and give place to the
                                   others. The getting up was worse than the going down, and it was
                                   a good thing to sit down on the plateau outside the tomb, among
                                   the grand cliffs - here Carter had his bed and some chairs - and
                                   I thought it must be a grand place to sleep. We went afterwards
                                   to the lunch tomb, and all lunched there - and we were home by 5
                                   o’clock - and tumbled out of our dusty garments and were glad
                                   enough to have tea.</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Wednesday, Feb. 4.</title></p>

                            <p><persName>Theodore</persName> and <persName>v. Bissing</persName>
                                   went over to the <placeName>Tombs</placeName> again this morning
                                   and were not home until late. <persName>Eliza</persName> spent
                                   the morning with her cousin at the <name type="hotel">Luxor
                                          hotel</name> - and I have been living on deck - as it was
                                   so warm and delightful. We had lunch there.</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Thursday, Feb. 5.</title></p>

                            <p>Another day at home. <persName>Mme. Maspero</persName>, and all her
                                   people came to tea. I was the only one to receive them.
                                          <persName>Theodore</persName> and <persName>v.
                                          Bissing</persName> having gone to
                                          <placeName>Karnak</placeName> and
                                          <persName>Eliza</persName> having gone to bed for the
                                   afternoon. Cooler tonight and much wind.</p>
                     </div>
                     <pb n="139"/>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Friday, Feb. 6.</title></p>

                            <p>Home again all day - with rather a scare - <persName>Theo.</persName>
                                   having gone over to <placeName>Luxor</placeName> with
                                          <persName>v. Bissing</persName> after breakfast, came back
                                   soon in a hard chill. <persName>Dr. Campbell</persName> who
                                   arrived on the Victoria from <placeName>Aswân</placeName> came
                                   over after lunch to see him and then again this evening. He
                                   thinks it is the result of cold and fatigue, and perhaps a little
                                   malaria, and prescribed quinine and more rest!</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Saturday, Feb. 7.</title></p>

                            <p>A howling gale again today - worse than yesterday.
                                          <persName>Theodore</persName> is better - quite himself -
                                   but did not go out. While at dinner <persName>Theo.</persName>
                                   received a note from <persName>Mrs. Gray</persName>, saying she
                                   had just arrived - and after dinner, I took <persName>v.
                                          Bissing</persName> and we went over to see her. She is
                                   thoroughly enjoying herself - and looks remarkable well. The Maat
                                   looked so attractive.</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Septuagessima Sunday. Feb. 8.</title></p>

                            <p>Went over to <persName>Carter</persName>s at 10 o’clock this morning
                                   - a tremendous wind blowing - and sand flying - had our lunch
                                   with us - We went to see the things from the tomb - all spread
                                   out in one of <persName>Carter</persName>s rooms - a really
                                   splendid show. I was enchanted. The wonderful chariot - which is
                                   of the finest and most spirited work - the entrancing blue things
                                   - many unusual and unique things. <persName>Mrs.
                                   Tytus</persName>, and <persName>Mrs. Gray</persName> both came
                                   over in the afternoon.</p>
                     </div>
                     <pb n="140"/>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Monday, Feb. 9.</title></p>

                            <p>Another gale from the north - at home all day. The beauty of these
                                   indescribable nights atones for the cold and windy days.</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Tuesday, Feb. 10.</title></p>

                            <p>A pleasant, almost warm day. At home all day. The <persName>Barrett
                                          Wendle</persName>s came to tea, and <persName>Mrs.
                                          Gray</persName> and <persName>Miss Ghio</persName> to
                                   dinner.</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Wednesday, Feb. 11. </title></p>
                            <p><persName>Baron v. Bissing</persName> went to
                                          <placeName>Cairo</placeName> today. <persName>Mrs.
                                          Tytus</persName> and <persName>Newberry</persName> came to
                                   lunch with me - the rest having gone to the <placeName>Tombs of
                                          the Kings</placeName>. <persName>Mrs. Gray</persName>
                                   appeared just after dinner on her tug, brilliantly illuminated
                                   and wanted us to go down to <placeName>Karnak</placeName> and see
                                   it by moonlight. <persName>Eliza</persName> went.
                                          <persName>Nubaweeyeh</persName> and <persName>Miss
                                          Buchanan</persName> to tea.</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Thursday, Feb. 12.</title></p>

                            <p>A cool north wind all day. <persName>Theodore</persName> took the
                                          <persName>Wendell</persName>s over to
                                          <persName>Carter</persName>s to see the “find”.
                                          <persName>Carter</persName> is staying with us.</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Friday, Feb. 13.</title></p>

                            <p>All went over to <persName>Carter</persName>s this afternoon - home
                                   in time to receive <persName>Mrs. Gray</persName> for tea.
                                          <persName>Theodore</persName> and
                                          <persName>Carter</persName> have abandoned work on the
                                   tomb they have been at some time, and have started into
                                          <placeName>Tomb No. 20</placeName>. Cold wind all day.</p>
                     </div>
                     <pb n="141"/>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Saturday, Feb. 14.</title></p>

                            <p>A sweet quiet day to myself - the rest at the <placeName>tombs of the
                                          Kings</placeName> again. <persName>Mr. and Mrs.
                                          Murch</persName>, <persName>Miss Buchanan</persName>,
                                          <persName>Miss Broderick</persName> and a friend to
                                   tea.</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Sexigesima Sunday, Feb. 15.</title></p>

                            <p>Another good day - <persName>Mrs. Tytus</persName> and
                                          <persName>Bob</persName> dined with us.
                                          <persName>Carter</persName> is with us.</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Monday, Feb. 16.</title></p>

                            <p><persName>Theodore</persName> went across with
                                          <persName>Carter</persName> this morning and spent the day
                                   there with <persName>Newberry</persName>. <persName>Bob
                                          Tytus</persName> came to breakfast. They went to the
                                          <persName>Sciapperelli</persName> camp to see a
                                          <placeName>tomb</placeName> he had found - a son of
                                          <persName>Thothmes III</persName>. It was heaped with
                                   ordinary coffins of later times. The workmen in <placeName>tomb
                                          no. 20</placeName> - found today four small alabaster
                                   jars, with the cartouche of <persName>Hatshepsut</persName> - it
                                   looks encouraging.</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Wednesday, Feb. 18.</title></p>

                            <p>We have had two warm days - so pleasant last evening. The
                                          <persName>Barrett Wendell</persName>s dined with us, - and
                                   tonight <persName>Mrs. Metcalfe</persName> - such an interesting
                                   visit. <persName>Mrs. Tytus</persName> and
                                          <persName>Bob</persName> came over late in the afternoon
                                   to say goodbye. <persName>Bob</persName> is hurrying home to be
                                   married to <persName>Miss Henness</persName>, who was out here
                                   last year with her family - a promising marriage -
                                          <persName>Carter</persName> dined on the Scarab, and slept
                                   here.</p>
                     </div>
                     <pb n="142"/>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Saturday, Feb. 21.</title></p>

                            <p>We all went over to the <placeName>Tombs of the Kings</placeName>
                                   this morning. It was cold with a high wind - I was in my chair -
                                   my hat tied on my head, my jacket and my big long wadded winter
                                   cloak with a shawl over my knees - and I was cold as if I were
                                   sleigh-riding in <placeName>America</placeName>. <persName>Mr.
                                          Sayce</persName> was with us - we all shivered all day
                                   long. <persName>Carter</persName> came back with us.</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Monday, Feb. 23.</title></p>

                            <p>Two very windy days have passed - this afternoon we have had a real
                                   gale - and have been enveloped in sand. <persName>Mr.
                                          Sayce</persName> dined with us.</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Wednesday, Feb. 25. </title></p>
                            <p>A warm and delightful day. We all rode over with
                                          <persName>Carter</persName> to the <placeName>Roman
                                          Temple</placeName> a mile or two beyond <placeName>Medinet
                                          Habu</placeName>. I had never seen it - not interesting,
                                   though the ride there was - we had tea on the roof of the little
                                   temple.</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Saturday, Feb. 28.</title></p>

                            <p>Another quiet day at home - the rest going over to the
                                          <placeName>Tombs</placeName> - they brought
                                          <persName>Carter</persName> back with them. </p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>First Sunday in Lent - March 1st.</title></p>

                            <p>Very calm and warm all day - <persName>Mrs. Gray</persName> and
                                          <persName>Miss Ghio</persName> came to <pb n="143"/>
                                   lunch. They leave tonight by train for
                                          <placeName>Cairo</placeName> - <persName>Mr. and Mrs.
                                          Forbes-Leith</persName> to tea -
                                          <persName>Weigall</persName> came this morning.</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Monday March 2d.</title></p>
                            <p>We all went over to <placeName>Der el-Bahari</placeName> for tea - it
                                   was charming.</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Thursday, Mar. 5.</title></p>

                            <p>Went to <persName>Carter</persName>s for tea - two days ago
                                          <persName>Eliza</persName> and I went to have tea with
                                          <persName>Miss Buchanan</persName> at the
                                          <placeName>School</placeName> and a pleasant visit - said
                                   goodbye to her and <persName>Nubaweeya</persName> - the latter
                                   quite inconsolable. But it was so good to leave her there, clean,
                                   well dressed, improving and under kind and wise care. We have
                                   lingered on here hoping that <placeName>No. 20</placeName> would
                                   develope something further - but the shaft is filled with such
                                   solid débris that <persName>Carter</persName> things it will take
                                   weeks to clear - so <persName>Theodore</persName> has decided to
                                   have it closed for this season, and we are starting down
                                   tomorrow. <persName>Theo</persName>. has engaged a tug to meet us
                                   at <placeName>Asyût</placeName> and to come up after us if we are
                                   not found there. Said goodbye to the <persName>Murch</persName>s
                                   this morning.</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Saturday, March 7.</title></p>

                            <p>The wind has been howling all day - impossible to start - again
                                   enveloped in sand - <persName>Lythgoe</persName> and his
                                          <persName>wife</persName> called this morning.
                                          <persName>Newberry</persName> came to lunch - we have
                                   spent just one month and six days here since we returned from
                                          <placeName>Aswân</placeName>.</p>
                     </div>
                     <pb n="144"/>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Second Sunday in Lent - March 8th.</title></p>
                            <p> 18 miles. We made a very early start this morning - when I lifted my
                                   curtain to have a peep at the early morning we were just below
                                          <placeName>Karnak</placeName>. But the wind rose, and we
                                   were forced to tie up at 10:30. Such lovely nights are beginning
                                   now. I do so love and enjoy them.</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Monday, Mar. 9th</title>. 26-1/2 miles.</p>
                            <p> Again the same story - an early start - high wind by 10 o’clock -
                                   lying by until about 4 o’clock - we began rowing again, and are
                                   now lying opposite Keneh. </p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p>Tuesday, Mar. 10. 38 miles.</p>
                            <p>This is the first almost calm day we have had - very hot too. Brought
                                   up at <placeName>Nagh Hamadi</placeName> at 6 P.M. and were
                                   obliged to anchor in the river, and wait for the opening of the
                                   bridge tomorrow.</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Wednesday, Mar. 11.</title>
                            </p>
                            <p>Passed the bridge at 8:30 and after struggling against a baffling
                                   wind, tied up - having made only 4 miles. </p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p>Thursday, Mar. 12.</p>
                            <p>Another all day blow, and made again only 4 miles.</p>
                     </div>
                     <pb n="145"/>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Friday, March 13.</title></p>
                            <p> 10 miles. Started early, about 4 o’clock - but the wind grew strong
                                   and sent us on a rather rocky bank - and before the boat could be
                                   stopped, the noise was so frightening that we were all awakened.
                                   No damage - except a little loss of paint. Later the wind fell,
                                   and we pushed on, pulling up at <placeName>Balliana</placeName>
                                   at noon. We had an early lunch, then <persName>Theo</persName>.,
                                          <persName>Weigall</persName> and
                                          <persName>Eliza</persName> started for Abydos. It was hot
                                   too. <persName>Weigall</persName> left by train at 8 o’clock for
                                          <placeName>Cairo</placeName>.</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Saturday, Mar. 14.</title></p>
                            <p> 58 miles. Did not start until 7 o’clock - and after making about 3
                                   miles met our welcome tug the “Thothmes” the one <persName>Mrs.
                                          Gray</persName> had. The sailors gladly put away their
                                   oars, she made fast to us, and off we went, smoothly and quickly.
                                   Quite a wind until about 4 o’clock - when a gale began which
                                   exceeded anything I have ever seen on the Nile. We did not stop
                                   when we ought, and after the storm broke we could not stop - and
                                   had to hold our way in the very teeth of the gale - we were just
                                   approaching <placeName>Gebel el Hiridee</placeName> - and we kept
                                   on well past the mountain until the wind abated a little. For
                                   about half an hour I think we were in real danger. I stayed on
                                   deck, as we all did - thinking if we went over, it would be
                                   better to be in the open.</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p>Third Sunday in Lent. <title>Mar. 15.</title>
                            </p>
                            <p>A fine day and a good run of 68 miles. bringing up at
                                          <placeName>Monfalout</placeName></p>

                            <pb n="146"/>
                            <p>at 8:30. We almost ran upon the Istar a few miles above
                                          <placeName>Asyût</placeName> - she was fast on the sand;
                                   we cheerfully detached our tug, and sent her to pull
                                          <persName>Mr. Sayce</persName> off, for which he was duly
                                   thankful. <persName>Theo</persName>. went over to see him, and
                                   after we had reached <placeName>Asyût</placeName> and were
                                   waiting for the lock to open, he came over to see us. We had to
                                   wait 4 hours, and had a pandemonium of a time getting through.
                            </p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p>Monday, Mar. 16. 79-1/2 miles. We had more or less of a gale all day
                                   - and the tug went upon the sand several times. Stopped at Minia
                                   in the afternoon. I did not go ashore with the others, the wind
                                   was so strong and the air thick with dust. </p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Tuesday, Mar. 17. 89 miles.</title>
                            </p>
                            <p>Our best day - but very exciting as the river is full of gyassas -
                                   some of them on the sand and others beating down upon on us in
                                   the reckless way characteristic of them. We grew to be quite
                                   nervous at the tooting of the tug - and the excitement when one
                                   big working boat raked us our whole length - but with not much
                                   damage - but we feared all our windows on that side would go. A
                                   tremendous uproar! We are tied up at
                                   <placeName>Wasta</placeName>.</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Wednesday, Mar. 18.</title>
                                   <placeName>Cairo.</placeName> 56 miles. </p>
                            <p>Tied up at the foot of the old Museum steps where <pb n="147"/> we
                                   generally lie, at 12 o’clock - very sultry indeed - and this
                                   evening it has rained smartly. We were 10 days coming from
                                          <placeName>Luxor</placeName> - 6 without the tug. </p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Thursday, Mar. 19</title>.</p>
                            <p>
                                   <persName>Theodore</persName> and <persName>Eliza</persName> went
                                   into town this morning and came back reporting
                                          <placeName>Cairo</placeName> unbearable. It is crowded
                                   with Americans - extraordinary people. <persName>Mrs.
                                          Metcalf</persName> at lunch - flower show.
                                          <persName>Fritz</persName> and
                                          <persName>Weigall</persName> to tea and dinner. </p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Friday, Mar. 20</title>.</p>
                            <p>We went to the Museum this morning - and it impressed me more than
                                   ever as the greatest success in the way of an utter failure, I
                                   had ever known. Saw <persName>Baron v. Bissing</persName>, and
                                          <persName>Maspero</persName>. Stopped at <name
                                          type="hotel">Shepheards</name>, a hideous crowd there.
                                          <persName>Eliza</persName> and I then went to the Bazaar
                                   and walked through it - and then saw 2 mosques.
                                          <persName>Campbells</persName> and
                                          <persName>Newberry</persName> to tea.</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Saturday, Mar. 21.</title></p>
                            <p> Again in town for the morning - and to the Quibells for tea. Cold, -
                                   high winds.</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Sunday, 4th in Lent</title>. Mar. 22. Eliza and I went over to
                                   the Zoo this morning, taking Selim and Ismain with us. Saw some
                                   lovely birds. Newberry to lunch. The Winslows at tea, all four of
                                   them - like a funeral procession - all <pb n="148"/> crêpe and
                                   dismalness. It rained tremendously this evening for about an hour
                                   or more. </p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Monday, Mar. 23.</title></p>
                            <p>Quite busy this morning arranging and packing. In the afternoon went
                                   into town shopping and meeting <persName>Carter</persName> who
                                   arrived this morning we had tea at <name type="hotel"
                                          >Shepheards</name>. <persName>Eliza</persName> and I
                                   lunched with <persName>Mrs. Quibell</persName>, to meet
                                          <persName>Mrs. Alston</persName>, wife of <persName>Judge
                                          Alston</persName> the English Judge here - she was
                                          <persName>Miss Chew</persName> of Baltimore - and a nice,
                                   sensible looking attractive woman. A delicious lunch, and a very
                                   pleasant visit. Mr. and Mrs. Quibell dined with us, and played
                                   Bridge afterwards.</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Tuesday, Mar. 24th.</title></p>
                            <p>At home all day - very busy - our last day for this season on this
                                   precious little boat. Weather very cold, with high winds and
                                   overcast skies. Our men have been giving us a farewell
                                   concert.</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Wednesday, Mar. 25th.</title></p>
                            <p>We left the boat quite sorrowfully this morning and came to our old
                                   quarters at the <name type="hotel">Ghezireh Palace Hotel</name>,
                                   stopping on our way at the Museum, where after a little stay we
                                   brought <persName>Mr. Carter</persName> home with us for lunch -
                                   and then took him into town, making some visits - among them
                                   going to see <persName>Miss James</persName> at her Nurses’ Home
                                   which looked so pleasant. <persName>Mr. Newberry</persName> and
                                          <persName>Baron v. Bissing</persName> came to dine.
                                          <placeName>Cairo</placeName> is filled to overflowing with
                                   masses of Americans. We stopped this afternoon with <pb n="149"/>
                                   <persName>Carter</persName> at <name type="hotel"
                                          >Shepheards</name> for tea - and the crowd and noise were
                                   insufferable. It was nice to drive back to these quiet
                                   gardens.</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Thursday, Mar. 26.</title></p>
                            <p>Again at the Museum this A.M. arranging about having our things
                                   packed. Lunched with <persName>Newberry</persName> at the
                                          <placeName type="hotel">Angleterre</placeName>, and an
                                   excellent one it was. Then drove, with him and
                                          <persName>Carter</persName> to the Museum, where
                                          <persName>M. Maspero</persName> had arranged for the
                                   unwrapping of the mummy of <persName>Thothmes IV</persName>. We
                                   found it lying on the table of one of the smaller rooms, and
                                   about 30 people there. <persName>Lord and Lady Cromer</persName>
                                   to whom we were presented, <persName>M. Maspero</persName> and
                                   his wife and some friends, several Egyptologists, and 4 Doctors.
                                          <persName>Dr. and Mrs. Campbell</persName> and ourselves.
                                          <persName>Maspero</persName> made a nice little speech,
                                   and then the unwrapping began. It was interesting to see how the
                                   original bandages had been replaced and made use of in the old
                                   time of <persName>Horemheb</persName>, when, as the hieratic
                                   inscriptions in the tomb showed, the body had been rewrapped
                                   after having been robbed in times unknown. Nothing was found on
                                   the body - nor had we expected anything to be found. It was a
                                   thrilling moment when finally the face was uncovered showing a
                                   man apparently from 30-35 years of age. A fine, agreeable, well
                                   preserved face - the head looking small, as did the body.
                                          <persName>Carter</persName> and
                                          <persName>Newberry</persName> had made a bet on the way to
                                   the Museum, as to whether the King had been 25 or 30 years of
                                   age. - I found 4 little sparrows in my room this morning - almost
                                   every night some of them enter before the big windows are closed
                                   - and sleep up under the cornices of the curtains, and fly out as
                                   soon as the windows are opened in the morning.</p>
                     </div>
                     <pb n="150"/>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Friday, Mar. 27.</title></p>
                            <p>Shopping and driving this morning - <persName>Eliza</persName> went
                                   to see the Dervishes with the <persName>Winslows</persName>. Had
                                   quite a tea party this afternoon on the terrace -
                                          <persName>Quibells</persName>, <persName>Mrs.
                                          Metcalf</persName>, <persName>Dr. and Mrs.
                                          Campbell</persName> etc. <persName>Dr. and Mrs.
                                          Sandwith</persName> dined with us.</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Saturday, Mar. 28</title></p>
                            <p>More shopping and driving this morning. <persName>Carter</persName>
                                   lunched with us. Then <persName>Theo</persName>. and I took him
                                   into town, and afterwards paid our farewell visit to the Beduin.
                                   She was transformed - all shrouded in her summer awnings -
                                   everything shut inside, and packed away. Then we had a drive
                                   along the Pyramid road - and stopped for a cup of tea with
                                          <persName>Mrs. Quibell</persName> -
                                          <persName>Eliza</persName> went in town to dine with the
                                          <persName>Winslow</persName>s at the <placeName
                                          type="hotel">Savoy</placeName> - and attend the dance -
                                   and we have had a quiet evening.</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Thursday, April 2d</title></p>
                            <p><placeName>Venice</placeName>. <name type="hotel">Hotel
                                          Britannia</name>. We arrived this afternoon about 6 P.M.
                                   from <placeName>Bologna</placeName> where we lunched at the <name
                                          type="hotel">Hotel Breen</name> - and afterwards drove
                                   about to show <persName>Eliza</persName> a little of the city and
                                   the leaning towers. We left <placeName>Cairo</placeName> at 11
                                   o’clock on Sunday morning the 29th -
                                          <persName>Weigalls</persName> came with us to
                                          <placeName>Port Said</placeName>, going on the next day by
                                   the Egypt to <placeName>Marseilles</placeName>.
                                          <persName>Newberry</persName> was at the station, and all
                                   our men drawn up in line - and such salaams and kissing of hands
                                   - we had a fairly good passage on the Osiris - and found among
                                   the passengers <persName>Col. Sir Simon Lockhardt</persName>, and
                                   his wife, with whom we fraternized. We waited so long for the
                                   Sudan mail on the Egypt that we did</p>
                            <pb n="151"/>
                            <p>not get off until noon on the 30th - reached
                                          <placeName>Brindisi</placeName> on Wednesday the 1st of
                                   April at 6:30 - took the waiting so-called traine de luxe and had
                                   the carriage for <placeName>Turin</placeName> quite to ourselves
                                   - slept well - weather cold everywhere.</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Friday, April 3d.</title></p>
                            <p>We find <persName>Lord Roseberry</persName> is occupying our usual
                                   appartment here and we have corresponding rooms below - just as
                                   comfortable but not so grand. Went first to <placeName>San
                                          Marco</placeName> of course - and to the
                                          <placeName>Frari</placeName> and <placeName>SS. Giovanni e
                                          San Paolo</placeName>. It was strange to see the Piazetta
                                   without the Campanile - and I am now of
                                          <persName>Theodore</persName>’s opinion, that it can be
                                   well spared - as it gives an unobstructed view of the Church and
                                   Doges Palace. Venice is looking to her foundations! It seems to
                                   me half the city is under scaffolding - and repairs everywhere
                                   going on - the canals crowded with working boats. The Frari and
                                   SS. Gio. e S. Paolo are full of scaffolding - and at the former
                                   the great Bellini has been placed for the present in the apse,
                                   where a splendid light from the lofty Gothic windows falls upon
                                   the incomparable beauty of the picture.</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Saturday, April 4th.</title></p>
                            <p>To the <placeName>Schiavone church of S. Giorgio</placeName> this
                                   morning, and a delightful visit with the
                                          <persName>Carpaccios</persName> - thence to the Gallery,
                                   where we stayed until lunch time. In the afternoon to the
                                          <persName>Benson’s</persName>, and found them better than
                                   usual - and very cheerful and hospitable. She, poor thing, had
                                   been carried down to the garden - where the tulips and
                                   daffodils</p>
                            <pb n="152"/>
                            <p>were blooming - always so cheerful, with no complaints - she is a
                                   strong and smart personality.</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Sunday, Palm Sunday, Apr. 5th.</title></p>
                            <p>Went early to San Marco - where a solemn service was being held - I
                                   had hoped to hear some good music - but was disappointed. However
                                   sat and listened a long time in the gallery to it - and then went
                                   out on the balcony by the famous horses, where we could look down
                                   on the foundations of the Campanile. After lunch
                                          <persName>Theodore</persName> and I went out in the
                                   gondola and went to 3 churches, but failed to get in any of them,
                                   as they were closed - but we had some pleasant surprises in the
                                   various “calli” and squares. We at last gave it up, as the wind
                                   was strong and cold, and went home to tea. Got possession of our
                                   old appartment.</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Monday, April 6.</title></p>
                            <p>To the church of the della Vigna, to see the lovely Negroponte
                                   Madonna. But the picture was covered and the sacristan
                                   incoercible, so we had to come away. Thence to
                                          <persName>Dorigo</persName>’s to settle about the marbles
                                   - and after luncheon went for a visit to Palazzo Capello - and
                                   had a pleasant visit.</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Tuesday, April 7.</title></p>
                            <p><persName>David Constantini</persName> appeared this morning for
                                   breakfast. Afterwards <persName>Eliza</persName> and I went to
                                   San Marco, and walked about it, and then <pb n="153"/> entered
                                   and stayed a long time. What a wonder, a beautiful mystery it is!
                                   Saw the treasury, with its exquisite things. At home this
                                   afternoon. Playing bridge all the evening.</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Wednesday, April 8.</title></p>
                            <p>Had intended going to <placeName>Torcello</placeName> today - but
                                   weather too bad. Went out for a short time in the gondola closed
                                   as it was raining, but soon came home, as the wind was high, and
                                   the water rough - and all the rest of the day we have stayed at
                                   home - as the storm increased in violence, and grew into a real
                                   tempest. Played Bridge all the afternoon and evening.</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Thursday, April 9.</title></p>
                            <p><persName>Eliza</persName> and <persName>Theo</persName>. and
                                          <persName>Costantini</persName> went out, but I did not
                                   until after an early lunch we took the little steamer belonging
                                   to this hotel and taking <persName>Amelie</persName> and
                                          <persName>Jones</persName> with us went out to
                                          <placeName>Torcello</placeName> - an hours journey took us
                                   there. Then we had a little walk to the strange small interesting
                                   church. Such an ideally forgotten and ancient place - looking so
                                   pathetic in its loneliness. We spent an hour or more rambling
                                   about and around it - and on reaching the boat again, found a
                                   most attractive looking tea table spread for us in the little
                                   cabin. <persName>Theodore</persName> after dinner hearing
                                          <persName>Mrs. Metcalfe</persName> was at the hotel next
                                   us went in to see her and brought her over with him. Soon after
                                          <persName>Mr. Benson</persName> came in - after they went,
                                   Bridge as usual.</p>
                     </div>
                     <pb n="154"/>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Friday, April 10. Good Friday.</title></p>
                            <p>Went with <persName>Mrs. Metcalfe</persName> to see some laces at a
                                          <persName>Mrs. Brown</persName>’s - and found such
                                   charming things. Then to the Gallery. After lunch we went to say
                                   goodbye to the <persName>Benson</persName>’s taking
                                          <persName>Mrs. Metcalfe</persName> who had lunched with
                                   us, and <persName>Costantini</persName> to see them. Then, we all
                                   went back to the <persName>Brown</persName>’s to tea - where we
                                   ordered some pretty things. <persName>Mrs. Brown</persName> has
                                   been for years interested in teaching the peasant children and
                                   women about <placeName>Venice</placeName>, how to do embroidery
                                   on linen - and how to copy certain kinds of old lace. She has
                                   built up quite a commerce in this way, and has now over a hundred
                                   people working for her. The work is exquisite, and very
                                   reasonable in price - we are off tomorrow,
                                          <persName>Eliza</persName> and I to
                                          <placeName>Florence</placeName>,
                                          <persName>Theodore</persName> and
                                          <persName>Jones</persName> to
                                          <placeName>Dresden</placeName>,
                                          <persName>Costantini</persName> to
                                          <placeName>Milan</placeName>. This morning went to the
                                   Frari, and listened to the music and watched the service.</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Saturday, April 11. <name type="hotel">Hotel Grande
                                                 Bretagne</name>,
                                          <placeName>Florence</placeName>.</title></p>
                            <p>The morning dawned cold and raining - an early breakfast.
                                          <persName>Theodore</persName> started immediately after.
                                   We went in half an hour - and until after we crossed the
                                   mountains it rained and was very cold, the tops of the mountains
                                   covered with snow. Arrived at 4 o’clock, being half an hour late.
                                   Found <persName>Nettie</persName> waiting for us at the station,
                                   and <persName>Lizzie</persName> at the hotel,
                                          <persName>Mary</persName> not being well enough to come
                                   out. <persName>Nettie</persName> dined with us.</p>
                     </div>
                     <pb n="155"/>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Easter - April 12.</title></p>
                            <p>Awake soon after 4 o’clock this morning - and got up and opened my
                                   shutters - and after waiting a little for dawn, began my Easter
                                   reading. It was a quiet hour and half I had, before
                                          <persName>Amelie</persName> came. Drove early to the
                                   Villino to get <persName>Lizzie</persName> for church, but she
                                   had already gone, and <persName>Nettie</persName> said I would
                                   find the little church so packed I would not be able to get in.
                                   So I stayed with <persName>Mary</persName> who was better, and in
                                   the sitting room. Then <persName>Nettie</persName> and I drove to
                                   San Miniato and sat a long while on the steps of the terrace
                                   before the church, looking at the wonderful view of
                                          <placeName>Florence</placeName> outspread beneath us, the
                                   bells of the churches coming to us with mellow sound, and the
                                   splendid and exquisite colouring. <persName>Nettie</persName>
                                   came back with me to luncheon, and we all went to the Villino for
                                   tea - I am writing alone in this big salon -
                                          <persName>Eliza</persName> having gone to her room to
                                   write letters. Find many improvements in this house, and
                                   everything most comfortable - the sitting room is a bower of
                                   lovely flowers, sent in today by the Manager. Such happy news
                                   last night from Milwaukee, about <persName>Bessie</persName> and
                                   the new baby!</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Monday, April 13.</title></p>
                            <p>Eliza and I went for a drive this morning in the
                                          <placeName>Cassino</placeName>. Pleasant, but cool. This
                                   afternoon we went to the Villino for tea, and to meet
                                          <persName>Mrs. Busk</persName> and
                                          <persName>Daisy</persName> and <persName>Miss
                                          Miller</persName>. Just after we got up stairs, while I
                                   was talking to <persName>Lizzie</persName>, some one stood by my
                                   side, and said in a familiar voice, “how do you do”, and it was
                                          <persName>Enrico Cigala</persName> - he delights in these
                                   surprises, and I was delighted to see </p>
                            <pb n="156"/>
                            <p>him. It was nice too, to see <persName>Mrs. Busk</persName> and
                                          <persName>Daisy</persName>. <persName>Nettie</persName>
                                   came to dine with us.</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Tuesday, April 14.</title></p>
                            <p>Obliged to go to the dentist’s this morning - where I spent 2 cold
                                   hours, waiting for a piece of work that only lasted 10 minutes.
                                   Then drove to the Villino and brought <persName>Nettie</persName>
                                   and <persName>Mary</persName> home to lunch. In the afternoon
                                          <persName>Lizzie</persName>, I and the girls drove out to
                                   the Villa Lorenzo, occupied by <persName>Mr. and Mrs.
                                          Matthews</persName>, English people - whose father bought
                                   the villa 60 years ago. It was built by <persName>Lorenzo di
                                          Medici</persName>, and is almost untouched - and charming
                                   in every way - a fine avenue of cypresses leading to the house -
                                   splendid flight of broad stone steps leading to the wide stone
                                   terrace running along two sides of the house - and over whose
                                   weather-time stained balustrades, the little yellow Banksian rose
                                   threw itself in graceful profusion - the garden with its
                                   battlemented walls, its flowers, and avenues of great trees of
                                   lemons set in enormous pots, was charming.</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Wednesday, April 15.</title></p>
                            <p><persName>Eliza</persName> and <persName>Amelie</persName> both have
                                   colds - and are obliged to stay in the house. In driving this
                                   morning met <persName>Daisy Busk</persName>, and took her for a
                                   drive in the Cascine. Cold, high winds and snow on the mountains
                                   - <persName>Cigala</persName> here this afternoon, and
                                          <persName>Lizzie</persName> and the girls, and
                                          <persName>Costantini</persName> to dinner.</p>
                     </div>
                     <pb n="157"/>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Thursday, April 16.</title></p>
                            <p>Morning with <persName>Lizzie</persName> - day bad - and stormy -
                                   heavy thunder storm last night. Went to tea with <persName>Mrs.
                                          Busk</persName> - to meet <persName>Mrs. Arthur
                                          Busk</persName>, and <persName>Mrs. Lidderdale</persName>
                                   - the former being much interested in the <persName>Thothmes
                                          IV</persName> find. I took the photos of the chariot, and
                                   some of the little blue things to show - and they were most
                                   interested. <persName>Nettie</persName> and
                                          <persName>Mary</persName> to dinner.</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Friday, April 17.</title></p>
                            <p>A cold, wet day - spent the morning at the Uffizzi - the girls,
                                          <persName>Eliza</persName> and I.
                                          <persName>Mary</persName> spent the rest of the day with
                                   us. <persName>Daisy</persName> and <persName>Miss
                                          Miller</persName> to dinner - very cold.
                                          <persName>Theodore</persName> writes of snow and very cold
                                   weather in <placeName>Dresden</placeName>.</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Saturday, April 18.</title></p>
                            <p><persName>Eliza</persName>, <persName>Nettie</persName> and I went to
                                   the Museo Archiologuo this morning, and went through the Egyptian
                                   and Etruscan departments. I was greatly interested -
                                          <persName>Cigala</persName> to lunch - all went with
                                          <persName>Lizzie</persName> to the Albion tea rooms to
                                   tea. <persName>Mrs. and Miss Tiffany</persName> dined with us,
                                   and we had a pleasant evening. It has been like winter today. I
                                   have never known it so cold in
                                   <placeName>Florence</placeName>.</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Sunday, First after Easter. April 19.</title></p>
                            <p>At home this morning - very cold. This afternoon we went to the
                                   Villino to see two friends of <persName>Lizzie</persName>’s - and
                                   stayed very late.</p>
                     </div>
                     <pb n="158"/>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Monday, April 20.</title></p>
                            <p>This morning, <persName>Eliza</persName>’s cold being so much better,
                                   we went over to the Pitti - taking <persName>Amelie</persName>
                                   with us. The rooms were crowded. <persName>Eliza</persName> and
                                          <persName>Amelie</persName> walked through the passage to
                                   the Uffizzi - which <persName>Nettie</persName> and
                                          <persName>Mary</persName> came with me for a drive in the
                                   Cascine - it was cold but charming. The Fresh greenery - the
                                   birds - and the utter solitariness of the place. After lunch
                                          <persName>Eliza</persName> and I drove up to
                                          <placeName>Settignano</placeName> to see
                                          <persName>Berenson</persName> but did not find him at
                                   home. Dined with <persName>Lizzie</persName> and the girls.</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Tuesday, 21 April.</title></p>
                            <p>We had a busy morning at <placeName>St. Croce</placeName> - how cold
                                   it was - but we went over the whole charming place. Then to
                                          <placeName>S. Maria Novella</placeName>, where we did the
                                   same thing, and came home well tired, for lunch. This afternoon
                                          <persName>Berenson</persName> called, and we went to
                                          <persName>Mrs. Hagermeyer</persName>s to tea - such a
                                   pretty appartment looking out on the gardens of S. Spirito - then
                                   a turn in the Cascine, and home.</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Wednesday, 22 April.</title></p>
                            <p><persName>Eliza</persName> went off early with the
                                          <persName>Wendells</persName> to
                                          <placeName>Pisa</placeName> - about 10 o’clock the rain
                                   began, and has poured softly ever since. She got back about 8
                                   o’clock P.M. - saying they had had a good day, and had
                                   practically escaped all the rain. Went early to the
                                          <placeName>Villino</placeName> - and stayed all day.
                                          <persName>Lizzie</persName> in her room quite ill, and did
                                   not see her. <persName>Cigala</persName> appeared soon after
                                   luncheon. <persName>Miss Tiffany</persName> and <persName>Edith
                                          Miller</persName> came in after dinner.</p>
                            <pb n="159"/>
                            <p>Had a letter from <persName>Ethel Bronson</persName> announcing her
                                   engagement to <persName>Prince Giambatista
                                   Rospigliosi</persName>. I hear very good things of him. The
                                   letter was dated March 21st and had been following me about.</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Thursday, 23 April.</title></p>
                            <p>This has been a day of constant pour. <persName>Nettie</persName>
                                   came however at 10, and we did the
                                          <placeName>Bargello</placeName> faithfully - and
                                          <placeName>San Lorenzo</placeName> and the old sacristy -
                                   then to the flower market where I got a pretty pot of white
                                   Azalea, and took it to <persName>Lizzie</persName> - as it was
                                   her birthday - <persName>Mary</persName> came this afternoon and
                                   we went to <persName>Bardini</persName>’s and home to tea.
                                          <persName>Cigala</persName> came, and stayed until time to
                                   dress for dinner - and we had a merry time. <persName>Mrs.
                                          Wendell</persName> called. The sun came out this afternoon
                                   but at this hour (10 o’clock) the rain is pouring.</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Friday, 24 April.</title></p>
                            <p>Went out with <persName>Nettie</persName> this morning shopping - to
                                   the Bank - to <orgName>Cook</orgName>’s - got the tickets for
                                          <placeName>Paris</placeName> - <persName>Mary</persName>
                                   here to dine - tea at <persName>Lizzie</persName>’s -
                                          <persName>Mrs. Newman</persName>’s. </p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Saturday, 25 April.</title></p>
                            <p>Intended going to <placeName>Fiesole</placeName> this morning and
                                   after much debating and mixing plans, and sun disappearing and
                                   rain falling we gave it up - <persName>Nettie</persName> took
                                          <persName>Eliza</persName> to the
                                          <placeName>Academia</placeName>, and
                                          <persName>Mary</persName> stayed with me - and driving in
                                   the afternoon, and a quiet evening of letter writing.</p>
                     </div>
                     <pb n="160"/>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Second Sunday after Easter - 26th April.</title></p>
                            <p><persName>Nettie</persName>, <persName>Mary</persName> and I drove in
                                   the <placeName>Cascine</placeName> this morning, where we had all
                                   its freshness to ourselves. Coming home, we stopped to look at
                                   the Dog Show. <persName>Eliza</persName> and
                                          <persName>Amelie</persName> spent the morning at
                                          <placeName>San Miniato</placeName>. This afternoon
                                          <persName>Eliza</persName> and I went to the
                                          <placeName>Villa Landor</placeName> to see if
                                          <persName>Mr. Fiske</persName> was at home, but found he
                                   had gone to <placeName>Pisa</placeName>. It was a lovely drive
                                   however, on this most perfect and lovely day - the roses looking
                                   over the walls in masses, and filling the air with their perfume.
                                   Stopped at the <placeName>Badia</placeName> - all the fashionable
                                   world at the <placeName>Cascine</placeName>, at the Race Course
                                   and Dog Show. We preferred the Country. </p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Monday, 27 April.</title></p>
                            <p>The morning promised so fairly that we decided upon
                                          <placeName>Fiesole</placeName>. <persName>Mary</persName>
                                   and I started up about 10 o’clock - and had a charming drive -
                                   such delicious air - roses looking over all the walls - and
                                   climbing over terraces and trees. Stopped at the <name
                                          type="hotel">Hotel Aurora</name> - and ordered our lunch
                                   under the trees on the terrace. Then walked about the square and
                                   went into the Cathedral, which I had not seen for years - I was
                                   entranced with the lovely <name type="artwork">Mino da Fiesole
                                          Madonna</name> in the <placeName>Salutati
                                          chapel</placeName> - indeed we were delighted with every
                                   thing - the rather bare, cold dark church - and the delicious
                                   little old woman who showed us about - and who with tears in her
                                   eyes, almost clasped me in her arms when we came away. Then we
                                   sat down under the big trees in the square, on the cold stone
                                   benches - and bought straw things of the old man who had a booth
                                   near us - until <persName>Nettie</persName> and
                                          <persName>Eliza</persName> arrived by train, and we had
                                   our</p>
                            <pb n="161"/>
                            <p>not very good lunch - but a most merry one. After that we went to the
                                          <name type="museum">Museo</name>, and then climbed the
                                   hill to the lovely height above the <name
                                          type="place_of_worship_or_devotion">Monastery</name>, and
                                   wandered about, and assisted at the service in the little, cold,
                                   dark church. <persName>Nettie</persName> drove home with me, and
                                   we went to the <placeName>Villino</placeName> for tea - and
                                          <persName>Cigala</persName> came and <persName>Miss
                                          Miller</persName> spent the evening with us - and so we
                                   finished a nice, nice day.</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Tuesday, 28 April.</title></p>
                            <p>A busy shopping morning with <persName>Mary</persName>, then to the
                                          <placeName>Villino</placeName> with
                                          <persName>Cigala</persName> - and stayed until 3 o’clock -
                                   such pleasant hours. Then we drove to the <placeName>Castle
                                          Costello Bardini</placeName> - away above and beyond
                                          <placeName>Bellosguarda</placeName> - a most captivating
                                   place - we did so enjoy the drive and ourselves!
                                          <persName>Lizzie</persName> and the girls came to
                                   dine.</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Wednesday, 29 April.</title></p>
                            <p>We all went shopping - crowding 4 of us into the Victoria.
                                          <persName>Cigala</persName> came to lunch -
                                          <persName>Eliza</persName> and I went to tea with
                                          <persName>David Costantini</persName>. We went to dine at
                                   the <placeName>Villino</placeName> - <persName>Cigala</persName>
                                   there. <persName>Harry Burton</persName> came in afterwards - and
                                   then a great surprise! We were asked to go into the drawing room,
                                   and there found a somewhat improvised theatre - and
                                          <persName>Cigala</persName> and
                                          <persName>Nettie</persName> produced a play written by
                                          <persName>Cigala</persName> - a most funny farce - well
                                   written and well played. How we laughed - and how good it was in
                                   them to take so much pains to amuse us - but, I was rather sad -
                                   and felt nearer tears than laughter - and I hated to come away
                                   and leave them all, for tomorrow we go direct to
                                          <placeName>Paris</placeName>. </p>
                     </div>
                     <pb n="162"/>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Friday, 1st May</title></p>
                            <p>We arrived last night almost two hours late. The Royal train bearing
                                   the <persName>King of England</persName> to
                                          <placeName>Paris</placeName>, had preceded us some hours,
                                   and seemed to have disturbed the service of the road, so that in
                                   spite of our name, we were not express. We left
                                          <placeName>Florence</placeName> at 5:30 yesterday - having
                                   had a busy day - with <persName>Lizzie</persName> and the girls
                                   to lunch, and a farewell visit from <persName>Cigala</persName>
                                   afterwards - and we sat wearily waiting for the time to go.
                                          <persName>Nettie</persName> and <persName>Mary</persName>
                                   went to the train with us. I had ordered a little lunch basket
                                   from <placeName>Doni</placeName>’s and we found it very good. We
                                   had 2 small communicating compartments - and by 9 o’clock I was
                                   safe and comfortable in my really nice little bed - and had a
                                   very good night. I wakened about 7 o’clock and drew up my blinds,
                                   and then got back to bed, and lay watching the rain coming down,
                                   and the mists rolling up on the hills and mountains - we dressed
                                   and had breakfast before we came to the great tunnel, which we
                                   were just one half hour passing. A very charming ride during the
                                   morning - and while in the mountains, which were everywhere
                                   covered with snow. We found <placeName>Paris</placeName>
                                   celebrating the <persName>King</persName>’s presence - streets
                                   and buildings beautifully illuminated and decorated. We were not
                                   allowed to drive through certain streets near the <name
                                          type="cultural">Theatre Francais</name>, where the
                                          <persName>King</persName> was going - and we drove through
                                   squares lined with mounted dragoons, and when we reached the
                                          <name type="street_name">Rue de la Paix</name>, it was
                                   absolutely jammed with moving crowds of people looking at the
                                   illuminations. We found our rooms ready for us - the bright fire
                                   in the sitting room, the cheerful dining room with its table
                                   ready, and <persName>Emil</persName> with his napkin over his
                                   arm, ready to welcome us. We have for</p>
                            <pb n="163"/>
                            <p>years occupied these rooms, and they seem quite homelike.</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Saturday, 2d May.</title></p>
                            <p>Going out was impossible this morning - as all the shops were closed
                                   - and the streets packed with people. At 12 o’clock the street
                                   was cleared by the dragoons, and the enormous crowds packed upon
                                   the sidewalks, where they were held by a row of dragoons on each
                                   side. Finally came a mass of glittering, clattering cuirasseurs
                                   galloping down the street, then the open carriage of the
                                          <persName>King</persName>, with <persName>President
                                          Loubet</persName> by his side. They flashed by so quickly.
                                   I only saw a smiling pale heavy face under the drooping white
                                   plume, and the constant recognition of the hearty welcome given.
                                   The same thing was repeated in the evening, but with greater
                                   crowds and more excitement as at midnight the
                                          <persName>King</persName> again drove through the street
                                   on his way from the <name type="cultural">Opera</name>. It was
                                   after one o’clock before we got to bed. In the afternoon
                                          <persName>Eliza</persName> and I drove out to the
                                          <placeName>Bois</placeName>, and walked about - cold, but
                                   springlike.</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>3d Sunday after Easter. 3d May.</title></p>
                            <p>A showery day - crowds still in the street - and until midnight -
                                   though it was very wet, and no illuminations.
                                          <persName>Eliza</persName> and I drove to the
                                          <placeName>Bois</placeName> in the afternoon, and walked
                                   about under the trees. Cold and wet.</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Monday, 4 May.</title></p>
                            <p>Busy shopping and giving orders - rain and cold.</p>
                     </div>
                     <pb n="164"/>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Tuesday - 5th May.</title></p>
                            <p><persName>Theodore</persName> and <persName>Jones</persName> arrived
                                   this afternoon - I took <persName>Amelie</persName> and went to
                                   the <placeName>Gare du Nord</placeName> to meet them - bringing
                                          <persName>Theodore</persName> home at once - and leaving
                                          <persName>Amelie</persName> to help
                                          <persName>Jones</persName> with the luggage. They both
                                   look pale, having had bad colds in
                                   <placeName>Germany</placeName>. <persName>Theodore</persName>
                                   talked for hours to me about all poor
                                          <persName>Eleanor</persName>’s affairs.</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Saturday, 9th May.</title></p>
                            <p>We have been busy four days with shopping - always the wet, cold
                                   weather - with alternate sunshine. On one day we had 3 successive
                                   hail storms - as severe as I ever saw. Enormous damage has been
                                   done to fruit and crops. Received a letter today from
                                          <persName>McWilliams</persName> the Gardener - enclosing
                                   some charming sprays of heath, now flowering in the rock garden.
                                   His reports good - though there seems to have been wholesale
                                   destruction of the privet and vines about
                                          <placeName>Newport</placeName>.</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>4th Sunday after Easter.</title></p>
                            <p> A morning at the <name type="museum">Louvre</name>.
                                          <persName>Theodore</persName> and I in the afternoon drove
                                   up to see <persName>Mrs. Austen</persName> - found her at home,
                                   and had tea with her. Afterwards drove in the
                                          <placeName>Bois</placeName> - very wet - everything
                                   covered with mud.</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Monday, 11-th May.</title></p>
                            <p> Very busy all day - <persName>Austins</persName> to dine.</p>
                     </div>
                     <pb n="165"/>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Tuesday, 12 May.</title></p>
                            <p>At the <name type="museum">Louvre</name> all the morning among the
                                   Egyptian things. Driving and shopping all the afternoon - rain
                                   most of the time.</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Saturday evening - 16 May.</title></p>
                            <p>Ready for a start to London tomorrow and glad to leave
                                          <placeName>Paris</placeName> and its vanities - weather
                                   still abominable - <persName>Costantini</persName> arrived
                                   yesterday - he, <persName>Theodore</persName>, and
                                          <persName>Eliza</persName> are playing bridge - and I am
                                   turning off the last little things in the way of getting packed.
                            </p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Sunday evening - 17th May. <placeName>London</placeName>,<name
                                                 type="hotel">Hotel Cecil</name>.</title></p>
                            <p> We had a bad crossing today though I knew but little of it, as I
                                   slept all the way - so did <persName>Theodore</persName>.
                                          <persName>Amelie</persName> very sick, and
                                          <persName>Eliza</persName> miserable. We went on deck in
                                   order to land and it was a sickening sight - we were obliged to
                                   come to this hotel - as we could not get in at the <name
                                          type="hotel">Claridge</name> or <name type="hotel"
                                          >Coburg</name>. This looks like a Chicago Railway hotel,
                                   though we have charming rooms in the corner of the house
                                   overlooking the river - a large cheerful sitting room and good
                                   bedrooms - they are on the 3d floor, from the <name type="street"
                                          >Strand</name> entrance, and the 5th from embankment, and
                                   as we have all our meals in the sitting room and when we go out
                                   the lift takes us down to the embankment entrance, we see little
                                   of the rest of the house and its occupants.</p>
                     </div>
                     <pb n="166"/>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Monday, 18th May.</title></p>
                            <p><persName>Eliza</persName> and I shopping this morning - to the <name
                                          type="museum">National Gallery</name> this afternoon -
                                          <persName>Theodore</persName> dining with <persName>Mr.
                                          Arbuthnol</persName> at the <orgName>Nat. Liberal
                                          Club</orgName>.</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Wednesday, 20th May.</title></p>
                            <p>Two busy days of sightseeing - yesterday I went to the Tulip Show at
                                          <name>Drill Hall</name>, <placeName>Buckingham
                                          Gate</placeName> and saw wonderful things. <persName>Mr.
                                          Farrar</persName>
                                   <persName>Fielding</persName> and <persName>Rathbone</persName>
                                   called. This evening <persName>Theodore</persName> is dining with
                                   the latter.</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Thursday, 21st May.</title></p>
                            <p>This morning we went to an interesting loan of Greek things at the
                                          <orgName>Burlington Fine Art Club</orgName> - afterwards
                                          <persName>Theodore</persName> and I went to <name
                                          type="hotel">Bucklands Hotel</name> on <name type="street"
                                          >Brook Street</name> near
                                   <placeName>Claridges</placeName>, to look at the rooms, and were
                                   delighted with them - and will go there next year. A visit today
                                   from <persName>Miss Farrer</persName> - went with
                                          <persName>Fielding</persName> to the <name type="cultural"
                                          >Wallace collection</name> calling for him at his home.
                                          <persName>Theodore</persName> went in and found
                                          <persName>Lord Denbigh</persName> there and stayed to talk
                                   awhile. <persName>Lady Denbigh</persName> came out to the
                                   carriage to see me, and got in and paid us a visit. After seeing
                                   the wonderful and beautiful collection
                                          <persName>Fielding</persName> insisted on our going back
                                   and having tea with him. <persName>Mr. Rathbone</persName> came
                                   to dine with us, and we all went to the play of “In Dakomy” given
                                   by a Company of Negro actors from America, and which has taken
                                   immensely here. It was very funny and well done, and I don’t know
                                   when I have laughed so much.</p>
                     </div>
                     <pb n="167"/>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Friday, 22d May.</title></p>
                            <p><persName>Mrs. and Miss Arbuthnol</persName>, some friends of
                                          <persName>Theodore</persName>, made in
                                          <placeName>Dresden</placeName>, came to lunch with us -
                                   and afterwards I drove <persName>Eliza</persName> to
                                          <placeName>Buckingham Palace</placeName> to see the
                                          <persName>King</persName> and <persName>Queen</persName>
                                   who were going to open the new bridge at
                                          <placeName>Kew</placeName>. Many people had collected, but
                                   by driving down towards <placeName>Constitution Hill</placeName>
                                   we got beyond the crowd, and sent the carriage to wait for us at
                                   the end of the drive. We had a very good view of them as they
                                   passed with their escort - then we drove in the park and came
                                   home in time to dress for an early dinner to which
                                          <persName>Fielding</persName> came, and we all went to
                                   hear “The Light that Failed”, Kipling’s story, dramatized by
                                          <persName>Miss Fletcher</persName>, the daughter of
                                          <persName>Mrs. Benson</persName> of
                                          <placeName>Venice</placeName> - I never cared for the
                                   story - but the play was well done by
                                          <placeName>Forbes-Robertson</placeName> and his company. I
                                   doubt though the influence of such highly emotional plays. I
                                   believe it to be demoralizing. But I rejoice that <persName>Miss
                                          Fletcher</persName> has had such a success for it has been
                                   running a long time with good houses. </p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Saturday, 23d May.</title></p>
                            <p><persName>Mr. Rathbone</persName> came about 12, having asked us to
                                   to out to <placeName>Ranalagh Gardens</placeName> to lunch.
                                          <persName>Theodore</persName> took
                                          <persName>Eliza</persName> in a hansom, and <persName>Mr.
                                          Rathbone</persName> went with me in the victoria. We
                                   stopped on the way to see the gardens of <placeName>Chelsea
                                          Hospital</placeName>. I had never before seen them, and
                                   they were enchanting - three quarters of an hour brought us to
                                          <placeName>Ranalagh</placeName> where <persName>Mrs.
                                          Rathbone</persName> and her son were waiting for us. We
                                   had lunch and then walked into the grounds - there was to be a
                                   polo match - a ladies’ driving match - and a balloon ascension -
                                   so there was enough entertainment</p>
                            <pb n="168"/>
                            <p>for the afternoon. We had tea under the trees, and then walked in the
                                   old gardens, which were lovely. There are days when no one is
                                   there comparatively - when it would be captivating to spend a day
                                   there but as this was our only free day, we had to take this.
                                   Dined with <persName>Sir William Farrer</persName> -
                                          <persName>Col. and Mrs. Barker</persName> I met again. Old
                                          <persName>Sir William</persName> is the most wonderful old
                                   man - very lame now, goes on two sticks - but just as interested,
                                   as charming and as wide awake as ever, in spite of his 80 odd
                                   years. <persName>Mrs. Barker</persName> told me that the evening
                                   before, she and <persName>Minnie Farrer</persName> were
                                   smothering their yawns, feeling used up for the day, when
                                          <persName>Sir William</persName> was starting out for a
                                   lecture on “dictionaries”, coming home at 10 o’clock declaring he
                                   had had a delightful evening. </p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Sunday after Ascension. 24th May.</title></p>
                            <p><persName>Theodore</persName> took <persName>Eliza</persName> down to
                                          <name type="church">St. Paul</name>’s this morning, and I
                                   started with great interest to the <name type="church">Christian
                                          Science Church</name>, but found to my great
                                   disappointment that I had the wrong direction - so I took a drive
                                   in the park. In the afternoon we went to the
                                          <persName>Rathbones</persName> for tea met some pleasant
                                   people, and had a nice visit.</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Monday, 25th May.</title></p>
                            <p>To the <name type="museum">National Gallery</name> this morning and
                                   spent the time with the <orgName>English School of
                                          Painting</orgName> - a lovely morning it was. I stayed at
                                   home in the afternoon. <persName>Lord and Lady Denbigh</persName>
                                   called, and made a pleasant visit. He to excuse himself for not
                                   being present at <persName>Fielding</persName>’s dinner this
                                   evening, to which we are going. He is now in waiting on</p>
                            <pb n="169"/>
                            <p>the <persName>King</persName>, and had been commanded to accompany
                                   him to the <name type="cultural">Opera</name> this evening. After
                                   they went, <persName>Mr. Rathbone</persName> came and had tea
                                   with us. We found <persName>Basil Fielding</persName> at his
                                   brothers, <persName>Lady Denbigh</persName>, and <persName>Lady
                                          and Mr. Cary-Elwes</persName> - a pleasant evening.
                                          <persName>Mr. Cary-Elwes</persName> sang for us - we heard
                                   him a few evenings ago, when he made his debut before a London
                                   audience in <name type="building">St. James’s Hall</name>.</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Tuesday evening, 26th May.</title></p>
                            <p>This has been a busy day - <persName>Eliza</persName> and I went at
                                   9:30 to the <name type="event">Temple Garden Show</name>. I had
                                   written to <persName>Mr. Upton</persName>, who now manages the
                                          <name type="company">Guildford Hardy Plant Nursery</name>,
                                   where we have been buying for years, and who I knew was going to
                                   exhibit there, that I wanted to see the show, as it would be my
                                   only chance as I was leaving tomorrow, and as it only opened that
                                   day at one, and the crowds are always so great that little can be
                                   seen, could he tell me if I could gain an entrance in the
                                   morning. He answered if I would be at the <placeName>Embankment
                                          Gate</placeName> at 9:30, he would be able he thought to
                                   get me in. So <persName>Eliza</persName> and I boldly entered,
                                   passed the policemen, and demanded <persName>Mr. Upton</persName>
                                   - it worked beautifully, and was very satisfactory - such
                                   flowers! <persName>Fielding</persName> came to tea - and now at
                                   10:30 <persName>Basil</persName>, now <persName>Monsignor Basil
                                          Fielding</persName>, with what
                                          <persName>Fielding</persName> calls his “purple stomach”
                                   is talking with <persName>Theodore</persName> most earnestly and
                                   interestingly about his work in the slums at
                                          <placeName>Manchester</placeName>.</p>
                     </div>
                     <div>
                            <p><title>Tuesday evening. June 2. Holland House.</title></p>
                            <p>Arrived this morning - sailing on the <name type="vessel">Kron <pb
                                                 n="170"/> Prinz</name> from
                                          <placeName>Southampton</placeName> - the morning of the
                                   27th May - <persName>Mrs. Davis</persName> joined us.
                                          <persName>Gaspard Farrar</persName> sailed with us, going
                                   straight on to <placeName>Canada</placeName> for some fishing -
                                   we go to <placeName>Newport</placeName> tomorrow.</p>
                     </div>
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