volume-9_1901-1902.xml

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				<title>A Journal on the Bedawin 1889-1912</title>
				<author>
					<persName ref="#Andrews_Emma_B">Mrs Emma B. Andrews</persName>
				</author>
				<editor>
					<persName ref="#SLK">Dr. Sarah L. Ketchley</persName>
				</editor>
				<respStmt>
					<resp>EBA Interns</resp>
					<persName ref="#CS">Clare Summa</persName>
					<persName ref="#KV">Karena Vongampai</persName>
					<persName ref="#AL">Amanda Li</persName>
					<persName ref="#NS">Nitya Sampath</persName>
					<persName ref="JC">Jennifer Charoni</persName>
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				<publisher>The Emma B. Andrews Diary Project</publisher>
				<address>
					<addrLine>University of Washington, Seattle WA 98195 U.S.A.</addrLine>
				</address>
				<availability>
					<licence target="http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc/4.0/">This work is
						licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial 4.0
						International License."></licence>
				</availability>
				<date when="2018"> 2011-2018 </date>
				<distributor>The Emma B. Andrews Diary Project</distributor>
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				<note>Volume 9 1901-1902</note>
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					<title>A Journal on the Bedawin 1889-1912</title>
					<author>
						<persName ref="#Andrews_Emma_B">Mrs. Emma B. Andrews</persName>
					</author>
					<orgName ref="#APS">The American Philsophical Society</orgName>
					<address>
						<addrLine>105 South Fifth Street Philadelphia, PA 19106</addrLine>
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				<p>
					<persName ref="#Andrews_Emma_B">Emma B. Andrews</persName> is best remembered
					for her association with the millionaire lawyer turned archaeologist/art and
					antiquities collector, <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore M.
						Davis</persName>. Traveling to <placeName ref="#Egypt">Egypt</placeName>
					with him between 1889 and 1912, she kept detailed journals of these voyages
					along the <placeName ref="#Nile_River">Nile</placeName>, including his important
					yet under-reported excavations of 20 significant tombs in the <placeName
						ref="#Valley_of_the_Kings">Valley of the Kings</placeName>. <persName
						ref="#Andrews_Emma_B">Emma</persName> provides a vital commentary on the
					archaeology and pioneering Egyptologists of the time. She paints a revealing
					picture of the lives of the colonial gentry and the cultural and scientific
					literati in <placeName ref="#Egypt">Egypt</placeName> at the dawn of the
					twentieth century. To date, her diaries are unpublished; analysis of the
					contents of 19 volumes will afford scholars and a general audience information
					about an important historical resource for the first time. Since its inception
					in 2010, the scope of our project has broadened to include the transcription and
					digitization of a wide range of primary historical material from the 'Golden
					Age' of Egyptian archaeology detailed in the Research section of this website.
					The Emma B. Andrews Diary Project is one of the founding partners of Newbook
					Digital Texts. We are proud to offer undergraduate and graduate Digital
					Humanities education and internships.</p>
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						<persName ref="#SLK">Dr. Sarah L. Ketchley</persName>
						<affiliation>University of Washington</affiliation>
						<occupation>Affiliate Instructor</occupation>
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								<p>Project Director 2010-present</p>
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						<persName ref="#CS">Clare Summa</persName>
						<affiliation>University of Washington</affiliation>
						<occupation>Student Intern</occupation>
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								<p>Team member 2015-2016</p>
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			<div xml:id="EBA19011120" type="Entry">
				<p><title> Naples – Grand Hotel. Nov. 20, 1901.</title></p>
				<p> We arrived this morning after a rough and disagreeable voyage. There was not a
					day when I could have written an intelligible word. We sailed in the Hamburg SS.
					Columbia from New York the 9th of November, Theodore, Bessie Koon and I. We
					passed the asores on Thursday the 14th but the weather was so thick they could
					just be discerned. Reached Gibraltar at 3 P.M. the 17th – were off again in two
					hours – touched at Algiers at 4 o’clock on the 18th. It did not look very
					attractive and it was too late and stormy to land. Naples is radiantly beautiful
					– splendid weather. We are in our old rooms – Vesuvius very quiet. Ethel Bronson
					who crossed with us, went on to Genoa. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19011124" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Sunday evening. Nov. 24.</title></p>
				<p> We are obliged to stay here until Thursday of next week, and then take that long
					railway journey over to Brindisi, to catch our Austrian Lloyd S.S. We had hoped
					to get rooms on the Prins Heinrich going from here the same Thursday, on which
					will be Mr. Agassig and his son Max on their way to Ceylon. Theodore wrote for
					these rooms 3 months ago – but on reaching here found there was no chance for
					them. Two young men, who are to go with Agassig came over on the Columbia with
					us. Dr. Woodward and Mr. Bigelow from Boston – such pleasant fellows. They are
					constantly with us. The weather has been unsettled for 2 days. Yesterday
					Theodore and the young people went up to Vesuvius. Today it has rained, and
					hailed several times – the clouds clearing away and returning suddenly - vivid
					lightning. We have been in doors all day. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19011227" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Friday, Dec. 27.</title></p>
				<p> We have made a good run, and 37 miles, lying now about 10 miles above Manfalout.
					Passed the great Gebel Abu Fedu chain very successfully, until the last turn,
					where we always come to grief – we had to track – but afterwards sailed steadily
					and splendidly through the beautiful evening until 9 o’clock. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19011228" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Dec. 28. Saturday. 16 miles.</title></p>
				<p>Assiut. We sailed in a light wind until we reached Assiut at 1:30. It was very
					exciting going through the new canal, past the barrage for the 1st time. A huge
					wail for us and for v. Bissing – and the salon looks like a business office this
					evening. Last year we took 24 days to reach here – this year 17! </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19011229" type="Entry">
				<p><title>First Sunday after Christmas. Dec. 29.</title></p>
				<p> A strong cold north wind has been blowing all day – and bringing to us the smoke
					of the great dredges at the barrage, so that being on deck was nasty. Theodore
					and the Baron went over soon after breakfast to the cemetery of Arab el Burg –
					where a process of rifling by the natives has gone on for 2 years – and some
					very interesting things have appeared. V. Bissing expects to do some
					investigation, and Theodore thinks he may join with him. They took Jones, and a
					lunch basket, three sailors, and crossed the river to where their donkeys were
					waiting. They did not come back until 5 o’clock, laden with some queer treasures
					– and reported an interesting day – and a long ride – the most beautiful he had
					ever taken in Egypt – Theodore said. Nettie and I did not go off the boat. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19011230" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Monday. Dec. 30. 38 miles.</title></p>
				<p>We have made a run of 38 miles – not leaving Assiut until 11 o’clock. The Istar
					came along at 9 o’clock and pulled up ahead of us. Theodore and the Baron paid a
					short visit to Mr. Sayce and then on donkeys, Nettie and I in a wretched
					victoria went into the town to find an antiquity merchant, who was not at home.
					We are near Tahtah tonight. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19011231" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Tuesday, Dec. 31. 40 miles.</title></p>
				<p>A fine strong wind all the morning brought us at 1:30 to Sohag, where we stopped
					only for a few moments to get our mail. Tied up this evening a mile below
					Menshieh? Day cool and fine, Theodore read us this evening Tennyson’s “Ring out
					Wild Belle” - and v. Bissing told us of the German customs pertaining to
					Sylvester’s Eve. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020101" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Wednesday, Jan. 1, 1902. 21 miles.</title></p>
				<p>A cool bright day. We reached Girgeh about 10 o’clock, and saw off in the desert
					opposite the house of Reisner, and the American flag flying. Theodore decided to
					stop, and make a visit to see how his excavations among the tombs are coming on.
					He and v. Bissing went over, stayed to lunch and were not home until 3 o’clock,
					when we went on, and drew up at the ugly high bank at Belliana, at 6:30 where
					the Axax was lying. A beautiful effect this morning on the Gebel Tourk just
					before reaching Girgeh - the mist on the river giving an Alpine effect to its
					bold outlines. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020102" type="Entry">
				<p><title> Thursday evening - Jan. 2. </title></p>
				<p> We are all so tired tonight after our excursion to Abydos - I went in my chair,
					the rest on donkeys - which were very bad as always. Theodore, and v. Bissing
					went over to Petrie’s camp - but the poor little beasts in my chair were not
					equal to it - and as the sky was threatening we came dragging home at a snail’s
					pace - we were all safely in the boat before the sharp thunder storm broke, and
					the rain fell in torrents. I never saw such a storm before in Egypt, -the
					effects were superb. Two steamers here tonight - Azaz went off early this
					morning. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020103" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Friday evening, Jan. 3. 16 miles.</title></p>
				<p>We have had a strange day - cold -occasionally rain - no sun - I went on deck
					about 4:30 - and found it like one of our early cold spring days in the north, -
					the intense green of the cultivated land along the shore - the unusual smell of
					rain - and the wet look of everything, was quite like home - we have just had a
					long and animated talk with v. Bissing on Ruskin, Grimm and Thode. How amusing
					everybody is! </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020104" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Saturday, Jan. 4. 27 miles.</title></p>
				<p>Made an early start in order to get through the bridge, thinking it opened at
					7:30 - but had to wait until 9 o’clock - got through in fine style and brought
					up 14 miles below Keneh about 7 o’clock. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020105" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Second Sunday after Christmas. Jan. 5. 34 miles.</title></p>
				<p>A beautiful warm day - with good wind - passed Keneh about noon, where the Zenet
					el Nil was lying going down - and soon overtook the Gazelle and exchanged
					greetings. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020106" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Monday, Jan. 6. 14 miles.</title></p>
				<p>We are lying within 10 miles of Luxor, and have been slowly moving the whole day.
				</p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020107" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Tuesday, Jan. 7. 10 miles. Luxor.</title></p>
				<p>Arrived shortly after noon - and coming slowly past the town, found the Scarab
					lying above the Castle, and pulled up a little distance ahead of her - against a
					high bank to be sure, but a sloping one, covered with a sweet green crop of
					wheat - we have taken 27 days less 3 hours from Cairo - last year we took 37
					days. Found a big mail waiting for us. Mrs. Tytus and Bob came to dinner. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020108" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Wednesday, Jan. 8. </title></p>
				<p>Such a beautiful day - we started at 10 o’clock - for the other side with Jones
					and our lunch paraphernalia. Crossed directly to opposite bank, and took the
					little path straight away through the pleasant fields to Medinet Habou and
					presently came to the place of digging on the site of the palace of Amenhotep
					III where Bob Tytus under Mr. Newberry is excavating the site and near where
					Newberry is excavating the dust and sand mounds for me. Work had only begun on
					these a few days ago - but a beautiful painted floor in the palace had been
					uncovered, and many fragments of highly decorated walls - the colour perfectly
					fresh. I am going to have a tent taken over where we can find shelter and rest,
					and have luncheon and tea. The desert is beautiful just there - and I feel that
					I would like to try living there. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020109" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Thursday Jan. 9th.</title></p>
				<p>Went into town this morning with Theodore on our donkeys, - to the Indian shop -
					to the Luxer hotel- and various places. Home in the afternoon - a cold, high
					wind blowing - Theodore off all day. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020110" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Friday, Jan. 10.</title></p>
				<p>A real gale has been blowing all day - cold, the river is rough waves. I have not
					been off the boat - and we have had our little stoves going. The Hennass family
					came to tea - Father, Mother and the two tall girls - also Mr. Wallis - and as
					Mr. Newberry was here most of the afternoon we had quite a tea party - and the
					little saloon seemed very full. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020111" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Saturday, Jan. 11.</title></p>
				<p>The morning dawned in lovely fashion - and Nettie and I went on deck after
					breakfast and said how charming it was to see the placid river once more, and to
					have no wind - but hardly had we spoken, when with a sudden blast, the wind came
					cold and strong - however Theodore, Nettie and I went out to Karnac - where the
					dust and sand blew in clouds, paid a visit to Mohassib and saw some pretty
					enormously dear things. This is the beginning of Bieram - and it was nice to see
					the people all in their best attire, and the dignified figures walking about in
					best black robes, with many white draperies. All the crew, headed by the Captain
					came this morning to give us the usual Beiram greetings. Nettie and I stayed at
					home this afternoon. Theodore at Der el Bahari and brought home Carter for
					dinner. Newberry also here. Our lovely little new moon was seen for the first
					time tonight. Nettie and I at tea with Mrs. Tytus, Lady Dunmore and 2 girls -
					such typical English Women of a certain kind. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020113" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Monday, Jan. 13.</title></p>
				<p>This morning v. Bissing went to El Kab to spend a few days with Mr. Somers-
					Clarke. Soon after lunch Theodore, Nettie and I rode over to the palace to see
					what was going on at the diggings. Jones and the tea basket went along. The day
					was charming and so was the ride. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020114" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Tuesday, Jan. 14.</title></p>
				<p>A cold wind today. The Parkers from the dahabeah Sa ‘fa which they have just
					bought came this morning to pay us a visit - much interested in our boat, as
					they are obliged to quite do over theirs next year. Theodore and Nettie went
					over to Medinet Habu and then on to the palace this afternoon - but I would not
					go in this furious wind. Maspero, on the Miriam, arrived down today. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020115" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Wednesday, Jan. 15.</title></p>
				<p>Prof. Goodwin and his wife of Harvard came to lunch today. Newberry and Carter to
					dinner, and played bridge all the evening. M. and Mme. Maspero made us a long
					call in the afternoon. Still very cold and high wind, the boat rocking a good
					deal. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020116" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Thursday, Jan. 16.</title></p>
				<p>At home all day - because of the wind. Mlle. de Deak, and Miss Culbord came to
					tea. The Baron came home this afternoon. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020117" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Friday, Jan. 17.</title></p>
				<p>Again the same account. I have never known Luxor like this. Every morning the
					ther. goes down to 50-52° in my room and we have had no life on deck since we
					came. Our little stoves in daily use. Carter dined with us - always so pleasant
					- in spite of his dominant personality. His taste for all natural things is so
					charming to me and how he draws and paints. He is very much absorbed now in
					trying to bring on the trial of the thief who broke into the tomb, and robbed
					the body of the great Amenhotep III. The administration of justice is in this
					country administered in a very funny and desultory fashion. The thief of whose
					identity everyone is convinced, is at large on bail at the magnificent sum of
					[symbol] 1 and the film gaffirs, or watchmen who are suspected of complicity,
					are contentedly reposing in prison having now no work to do, and more to eat
					than they usually have and although Carter has offered [symbol] 100 to anyone
					who will tell him the truth, the natives stand in such fear of each other that
					they all swear total ignorance. Carter, who is Inspector of Upper Egypt has
					proved himself a most efficient officer - is absolutely fearless - carries no
					arms - and rides about quite unattended at all hours of the night. Sayce and his
					friends Mr. Ward dined also with us. I think we were all a little tired - for
					directly after breakfast we had started over to the Tombs of the Kings &amp; I
					in my chair - in which I have had so comfortable a ride, as both donkeys went so
					well. It proved to be rather a bad day for the expedition, for the wind grew
					violent, and as 2 steamers were in port, we had two parties of tourists there -
					and every available lunch place being in use, Carter gave us permission to have
					our lunch table spread just behind the grille of the tomb now decided I believe
					to have been that of Ramses IV where in great privacy and comfort we ate it;
					first, however, going with Maspero and Carter into the raided Amenhotep III tomb
					- what a sad change we found! It has not been shown since the robbery, and M.
					Maspero was to make his official examination of the body. No one but Carter and
					the head police officer had been in it. On his first visit Carter found certain
					footprints belonging to one pair of feet, which he instantly photographed, and
					on reaching home found they agreed perfectly with photos he had lately taken of
					suspected foot prints in another raided tomb - and on an official examination of
					the suspected man, these photos matched perfectly in lines and size, his feet!
					We found the coffin of cartonnage had been lifted from the sarcophagus, laid on
					the floor, and the wrappings ripped from the feet to the head - and in a state
					of utter ruin - and the mummy which hadhidden on the boat, in a neighboring
					room, was smashed to pieces and the boat taken away. After a short glimpse of
					the wall paintings we climbed to the entrance, and to the light of day and fresh
					air - and then waited until the men had finished their examinatrion. They
					reported that not the slightest thing of value - no inscription remained. That
					the king was quite majestio - reminding one of Ramses II - that his hair was
					brown, and parted in the middle! After lunch, Maspero and Carter walked about
					with Theodore to fix upon the site of an exploration, which Theodore under
					Carter is to make in the Valley of the Tombs. The sky was threatening, and we
					then started for home. On coming out of the valley with its sheltering mountains
					we found a raging wind, the plain all one cloud of dust and sand, and Luxer
					hardly visible. We came home rapidly - how horrid it was - the shouting men -
					the galloping donkeys - the wind tearing my wraps off me - my hat hopelessly on
					the side of my head! Glad we were to get here - and to the ameliorating
					influences of hot water, brushes, and fresh clothes. The winds still rages. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020118" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Saturday, Jan. 18.</title></p>
				<p> Nettie and I in doors all day - violent cold wind - stoves going in my room and
					saloon. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020119" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Second Sunday after Epiphany, Jan. 19.</title></p>
				<p> Again cold and windy - I went with Amelie to the little church - and heard a
					short, good sermon from Mr. Sayce. I would have liked my fur cloak. Newberry
					came in the afternoon and stayed to tea. Dr. Schweinfurt and the Bob Tytus - and
					Mr. Wallace came in. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020120" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Monday, Jan. 20. </title></p>
				<p> At home writing letters all the morning. Early in the afternoon we crossed and
					went to the palace - Theodore and v. Bissing going first to Medinet Habu to meet
					Prof. Lyon and his wife. They came to our tent and had tea. For we have a big
					double tent spread at the edge of the desert, we have a table, chairs, 2 good
					skeleton lounges with mats and rugs - and a wooden floor. The Lyons were
					delighted, - a most lovely ride home. </p>



				<!-- I put a page break here, because I think the diary pages got mixed up -->
				<p>turning suddenly - vivid lightning. We have been in doors all day. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19011125" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Tuesday, Nov. 25th.</title></p>
				<p> I have never known a stormier day - and it followed a night of roaring wind. It
					has rained without ceasing - and no one has been out. Yesterday was clearing,
					with clear skies, and a bracing Tramon-tana air that was delicious. Theodore,
					Bessie and Mr. Bigelow went to Pompeii, and came home enchanted with their
					visit. Nettie and I drove and shopped and talked, and were happy. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19011126" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Wednesday, Nov. 26.</title></p>
				<p> We all had a fine drive this morning, and stopped at the Hotel Splendid, one of
					Bertalini’s hotels to see it. It is splendidly situated, almost on the level of
					Capo di Monte, and San Martino. It has just been opened - and is very
					attractive. The Naples tram lands you just below the hotel, where a huge lift
					has been built straight through the rock - and you are carried straight up to
					the restaurant level, which is at the top of the house. We, however, preferred
					to drive to the entrance. The third floor of the hotel retreats far enough from
					the front of the two lower floors to give a very wide esplanade or terrace,
					running the whole length of the building, and giving the most fascinating view
					of the whole of that wonderful region - the city below, the sea, the islands and
					Vesuvius. The hotel is furnished quite in the Waldorf Astoria style heated by
					steam - and arranged with many appartments, so that you can have your own
					sitting room and dining room - bath rooms galore. We did not know the house was
					opened, or we would have stayed there. Just a little below the hotel, is a piece
					of property, consisting of a large courtyard, with a charming, rambling little
					house opening by many long windows to a little verandah on the terrace, and
					lovely garden terraces below. It is built in a childish, foolish fashion,
					simulating a ruined tower etc. but there was something attractive about. I
					wanted to buy at once - it was empty and unfurnished, but in very good order -
					an English lady having lived in it for 2 years. We all adopted it. Woodward and
					Bigelow as well as the rest of us - and call it our Villa del Torre. Bessie went
					off to Florence at 3 o’clock - a little sad - and Woodward, Bigelow, Theodore,
					Nettie and I drove up to the Splendide to dine - in an open carriage in the
					brilliant moonlight. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19011127" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Thursday, Nov. 27, Brindisi - Hotel International.</title></p>
				<p> A weary ride from Naples- starting at 12, and arriving at 10 P.M. We find this
					dismal hotel somewhat improved. The boys came down to the station to see us off,
					and brought me some flowers. They hope for the tardy arrival of their steamer
					tonight. Our steamer is due at 3 tomorrow. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19011201" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Cairo - Shepheards - Dec. 1st - Monday.</title></p>
				<p> We have had fearful experiences since my last entry. The Cleopatra of the
					Austrian Lloyd Line arrived at Brindisi on time, and we were soon off, and found
					a gale outside waiting for us. It was very cold too. Nettie and I went to bed at
					once to get warm, - the night was hideously rough. We did not get up until
					before dinner next evening, when we went to table - but only stayed through 3
					courses. Hardly any one at table - the roof leaking - pools of water here and
					there, dishes smashing - moving about dangerous. We got back to our cabins as
					soon as possible and into our beds which we did not leave until 6 o’clock this
					morning, after we had succeeded in getting into harbour. The boat was
					indescribably dirty - cockroaches crawling over everything - no service - 2 old
					hags of stewardesses. The last night was really awful - I was quite worn out
					with trying to keep in bed - and the raging of the storm - the tons of water
					pouring upon the deck over my head - and the fact that we might not be able to
					get over the bar at the harbour, drove all sleep and rest away - we did get in
					however in a lull of the storm but the wind and rain began again as soon as we
					had landed. We caught the morning train, and arrived at noon - and are once more
					settled in our old rooms looking on the garden. We found Mrs. Tytus and Bob here
					waiting for their boat to be finished - and Mr. Newberry came to tea with us -
					he left this evening for Luxor. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19011208" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Monday, Dec. 8th.</title></p>
				<p> A busy week here, pushing on our preparations on the boat. It has been cold and
					rough - almost unprecedented weather it is said. But the good north wind has
					lately been blowing, and we are anxious to get off while it lasts. Baron v.
					Bissing is going with us as far as Assiut. We dined at the Chesireh last evening
					and had Mr. and Mrs. Quibell and Bob Tytus with us. Have had tea at the
					Quibells, in their pleasant quarters. There have been improvements at the
					Chesireh. They have opened a big chimney in the great hall - and it is not only
					comfortable but cheerful. Tea with Mrs. Sandwith. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19011210" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Tuesday evening, Dec. 10th. Beduin.</title></p>
				<p> We are once more in this dear little home, with its many interests. We had Mrs.
					Tytus and Bob, Mme. Baltassi and her daughters to tea. We hope to get off
					tomorrow. I forgot to enter the strange incident of the fate of the Cleopatra. A
					few hours after we landed, the Messagrius steamer trying to make a landing in
					the gale, fell foul of the Cleopatra, and crushed into her broadsides, literally
					cutting her in half - she sank in a few moments and now lies in the bottom of
					the harbour. No lives lost. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19011211" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Wednesday, Dec. 11th.</title></p>
				<p> Baron v. Bissing appeared promptly at 10 o’clock having sent his luggage and a
					box of huge books last evening so that Jones had his room quite ready for him. I
					waned to go to the zoo to see the magnificent lion again, but everything was so
					sticky with mud from the rain of yesterday, that I decided to stay at home and
					busy myself with getting in order in my room - About two we started with a very
					light wind - and made more or less progress. We passed the “Seven Hathor’s” Mr.
					Wilburs old boat, and soon lost sight of her. Then the “Sa ‘fa” flying the
					English flag - both of which had started out sometime before us. Tied up for the
					night near Turah - making 6 miles. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19011212" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Thursday, Dec. 12. 14 miles.</title></p>
				<p> A Heavy fog on the river this morning and did not get away until after 9
					o’clock. The day has been warm and charming - we got on the sand about four
					o’clock and although worked hard until after 7, we did not get off, until the Sa
					‘fa came up to us, and sent her men over to help us - when we were soon free -
					and both boats tied up for the night. The silver crescent of the new moon
					appeared tonight. This little home seems more charming than ever - its
					prettiness - its compactness, its convenience make it delightful. And now the
					days of repose and pleasant sensible occupation begin! </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19011213" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Friday, Dec. 13. 36 miles.Wasta.</title></p>
				<p> An encouraging run - we might have gone on for another hour, but that the Baron
					had to stop for his mail. He, Theodore and Nettie, Jones and 2 of our men went
					into the town and were not home until after dark. We will not have our mail
					until we reach Winieh. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19011214" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Saturday, Dec. 14.</title></p>
				<p> Still Wasta- a dead calm all day - but warm and pleasant. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19011215" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Third Sunday in Advent. Dec. 15. 5 miles. </title></p>
				<p>We have tracked, polled and pulled to an anchor most of the day - with helps from
					an occasional puff of wind, - clear and warm. We have lost sight of the Seven
					Hathors and the Sa ‘fa. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19011216" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Monday, Dec. 16. 10 miles. </title></p>
				<p>With a light wind and much tracking we have come to within 3 miles of Benisoef.
				</p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA1901127" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Tuesday, Dec. 17. 10 miles.</title></p>
				<p>The record of yesterday again. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19011218" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Wednesday, Dec. 18. 23 miles. </title></p>
				<p>A light wind during the morning, freshening in the afternoon brought us to Feshn
					about two o’clock - where we stopped to get mail for v. Bissing and butter and
					yeast for ourselves. A lovely day - our new little moon makes it quite light
					enough to sail into the evening. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19011219" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Thursday, Dec. 19. 53 miles.</title></p>
				<p>Minieh. We are very proud of our record today. The wind has not been strong but
					fair and persistent and kept unfalteringly along - the pleasant rippling of the
					water making music that I love. Sailed until 10 - and after dinner all went up
					on deck to enjoy the marvellous night. Most pleasantly occupied all day. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19011220" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Friday Dec. 20. 17 miles. </title></p>
				<p>Jones went off to the town today before breakfast and came back with a crammed
					mailbag - and a very discouraging mass of newspapers - and with the information
					that the Istar is just below us - and that he had gone on board to speak to Mr.
					Sayce. Soon after Mr. Sayce himself appeared, looking very well I thought - with
					dire tales of having broken his rudder near Abu Girgeh and having to spend days
					in getting it repaired. He has Mr. Ward the writer on Scarabs and other topics
					with him - and Theodore asked them to come into dinner if they should find
					themselves near us tonight. But we have sailed them out of sight, and are now
					lying about 3 miles above Beni Hassan. The night is incomparably lovely! </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19011221" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Saturday, Dec. 21. 8-1/2 miles. </title></p>
				<p>Rhodah - with a light wind we have worked hard to reach this place - we did at 6
					o’clock - warm and pleasant. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19011222" type="Entry">
				<p><title>4th Sunday in Advent - Dec. 22. Rhodah.</title></p>
				<p>We are still lying here - there being no wind. We are opposite the town, and at
					the site of the ancient Antinopolis and we walked this morning to its ruins, a
					short distance away, and saw the columns of Ramses’s II temple, standing deep
					down in the rubbish. The sun was so hot that after climbing about over the
					mounds of potshords Nettie and I came back to the boat. Theodore and v. Bissing
					kept on. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19011223" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Monday, Dec. 23. 5 miles. </title></p>
				<p>Tracked and polled all the morning, and came in view of a damboah, which turned
					out to be the “Hafiz” with the Christian family, under Salah’s care. We pulled
					up a little behind them and young Christian came over for a few moments this
					evening. We gave him all our late papers among which was President Roosevelt’s
					first message to Congress, in which we had been much interested, and sent him on
					his way rejoicing. Very hot all day. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19011224" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Tuesday, Dec. 24. 8 miles. </title></p>
				<p>We had only a breath of wind today, but pulled along until we arrived at Haji
					Kandil, where the Christians also stopped - as we intended going to see the
					pavement of Khaenaten’s Palace. We went across the river at 3:30 - and walked
					across to the house which Petrie has had constructed over this pavement to
					preserve it. A noisy lot of children and men followed us - and made it very
					disagreeable. The pavement is not so ruined as I thought it would be, and the
					graceful designs of birds and flowers, trees etc. so well known from
					publications, were charmingly interesting - as well as some remains of columns
					and sculptures characteristic of the period. We stopped on the Hafiz for tea -
					and saw a clean and most amusing little monkey - and well behaved. Nettie and I
					have been very busy all day, with our Christmas preparations. I has been cooler
					and overcast today. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19011225" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Wednesday, Dec. 25. Christmas. </title></p>
				<p>We made quite a brave show at breakfast this morning with our gifts and
					decorations - and were very merry. The deck was as usual beautifully trimmed
					with palm branches, and other greens. Baron v. Bissing went across the river
					soon after lunch, and spent the afternoon prowling about the site of the old
					city of Tel Aarna and came home in great glee laden with spoils, - two tor three
					quite valuable ones. The day has been bright, with cool south wind-- and we have
					not stirred. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19011226" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Thursday, Dec. 26.</title></p>
				<p> Such a strong wind we could not start this morning - something peculiar in the
					weather - very hazy - we have been on the look out for 2 days for Bob Tytus and
					his new steamer “The Scarab”. Just as we were finishing lunch Jones came in and
					said the Scarab was just on us. We all jumped up and rushed on deck to give a
					hearty salute. She pulled up just ahead of us and we went on board. Found Mr.
					Newberry with them. They left Cairo Monday afternoon. Theodore had seen the boat
					several times unfitted and was not hopeful of her comfort and appearance; but
					happily was much blessed. We were all indeed delighted with the comfort and
					beauty of the interior. Mrs. Tytus and Bob have shown a very pretty taste in the
					whole matter. I never saw a prettier interior. After an hour’s visit they went
					off anxious to reach Luxor as soon as possible. Our old Captain Achmed of the
					Nubia is their captain. The wind fell about 4 o’clock, and we tracked for a
					mile. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020121" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Tuesday, Jan. 21. </title></p>
				<p> The best day we have had since we came - almost free from wind. The Lyons came
					to lunch - Theodore and v. Bissing went after lunch to the palace - and Nettie
					and I had one of our old fashioned teas on deck. Newberry to dinner - and we had
					such a merry evening! v. Bissing leaves us tomorrow for Cairo - and Nettie goes
					with him for a visit to the dentist - having lost the other evening a very
					important filling from a tooth. She remains only a day in Cairo - such a
					provoking thing! </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020122" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Wednesday evening - Jan. 22.</title></p>
				<p> A beautiful and busy day at home - until at 5 o’clock Nettie and I took a walk
					along the high path leading back in the pretty country near us. A superb sunset
					and lovely effects - met Mr. Wallace coming home from his walk and we stopped at
					the Scarab for a little visit. Nettie dined there. Nothing more beautiful than
					Venus now and our full moon. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020123" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Thursday, Jan. 23. </title></p>
				<p> A cold, but beautiful day - Nettie and v. Bissing went to Cairo by tonight’s
					train. Newberry came to stay with us. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020124" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Friday, Jan. 24.</title></p>
				<p> At home all day - cold wind - Theodore went over to the palace this afternoon,
					and took tea for Prof. Goodwin and wife. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020125" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Friday, Jan. 25. </title></p>
				<p> An almost calm day - at home this morning. Theodore and I went over to Sheik Abd
					el Kurnah this afternoon to meet Newberry - found him with the Ogden party at
					the tomb of Rek-ma-ra. Then we took our tea to Carter’s house, he being away,
					and had tea on his verandah. It was lovely - and all came home together. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020126" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Septuagesima Sunday. Jan. 26. </title></p>
				<p> Nettie came back from Cairo this A.M. having got excellently well done with her
					dentist, - and had a very pleasant visit with v. Bissing and the Quibells. She
					reports Cairo horrid, after a heavy rain, and any one who has been in Cairo
					under these circumstances can testify to its unpleasantness. Mr. Ogden and his
					daughter dined with us. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020127" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Monday, Jan. 27.</title></p>
				<p> A very cold night, and a beautiful calm day. Theodore went to the tombs of the
					Kings with Newberry, and met the Ogden party there. Nettie and I took a frugal
					lunch and went out to the palace, and spent the day - having our tea basket with
					us. Mrs. Tytus with us. Theo. and Newberry joined us for tea - but the later
					returned to his little Gurneh house. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020128" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Tuesday, Jan. 28.</title></p>
				<p> Cold wind again. Mr. Ogden and Livingston came to call this evening. Mr. and
					Mrs. Quibell arrived at the Grand Hotel this morning and took lunch with us. The
					Mureh family and Miss Buckanan and friend of the Girls’ Mission School came to
					tea- and the Insingers to call. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020129" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Wednesday, Jan. 29.</title></p>
				<p> Nettie and I went into the town - and the Quibells lunched with us - and then
					Theodore took them over to the palace for tea. Cold wind as usual. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020130" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Thursday, Jan. 30. </title></p>
				<p> Mr. and Mrs. Phillips Schuyler, Mrs. Frank Millet, Mr. Carter and Cadwallader,
					all on their private steamer “Oonas”, took tea with us and Dr. Roundtree dined
					with us. Carter lunched with us. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020131" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Friday, Jan. 31.</title></p>
				<p> A lovely warm day. Nettie and I went over early to the palace, and spent a quiet
					day in our tent. Theodore had the Quibells to lunch, and then brought them over
					to Der el Bahari for tea, where Nettie and I joined them. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020201" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Saturday, Feb. 1.</title></p>
				<p> A delicious warm day - which Nettie and I enjoyed on deck. Theodore had the
					Schuyler party to tea at the palace. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020202" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Sexigesima Sunday, Feb. 2.</title></p>
				<p> Another lovely day of occupation on deck. Newberry lunched with us, and Theodore
					afterwards rode to Karnak. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020203" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Monday, Feb. 3. </title></p>
				<p> Theodore and I went by appointment this morning to the American Mission School
					for girls, which was established here this year. We took Nubia with us, as I
					want very much that she should go to this school. It is to be sure almost as if
					I should take a wild colt out of the fields and expect it to be satisfied and
					interested. We found a very good native house - new and large. With a really
					pleasant sitting room belonging to Miss Buchanan and her friend, also, who have
					charge of the school. Miss B. speaking very fluent Arabic asked Nubia if she
					would like to learn to read and write, and she promptly replied that “she
					wouldn’t”, and showed all her pretty white teeth in a merry smile. She further
					observed that she thought “those things would do for old ladies”! Then Miss B.
					asked “could she sew” - “No, she had never learned” - then, “would she like to
					learn to sew” “O very much”. (I had already explained to Miss B. what a little
					savage she was). Then we went all through the school, saw the 5 different class
					rooms, in which the 130 scholars are distributed - all very neat and most
					orderly. Nubia was much impressed with all this, and when she saw the long,
					pleasant dining room with its clean matting, its 3 tables, and neat dressers
					with nice looking dishes, she was delighted. At one of the tables the girls
					newly entered are put, where they eat in Arab fashion - at the others they are
					obliged to eat in civilized manner. They all take turn in preparing the tables,
					and in washing and cleaning the dishes and putting every thing in order
					afterwards. There are 10 boarders, who occupy 4 rooms - which we saw, - the beds
					were neat and simple, and good, with little white pillows and pink coverlids.
					Some of the girls who come from a distance, have their dinners at the school -
					and this was strong bait for my Nubia. Each morning the girls are marshalled in
					a row to pass inspection as to their cleanliness - and if they are not up to the
					mark, they are sent to a wash room to make themselves fit. The morning is
					occupied with lessons., - the afternoons with sewing and instruction in
					household duties. The scholars ranged from children of 5 to any age - one of the
					oldest being a widow with one child. We left Nubia with this widow - and she
					said she would begin her schooling the next morning. We will see. Theodore gave
					the school a nice piece of ground beyond the Catholic Church for a place for
					their new school house last year - and we intend giving to the building fund.
					Then we went to pay a visit to the Murches - where Theodore talked affairs with
					Mr. Murch. Nettie and the Quibells went over quite early this morning to Abd el
					Kurnah to see the private tombs under Newberry and to lunch with him - and
					Theodore and I went across the river at 3:30 with the tea basket to Carter’s
					house - where the rest joined us - and we all rode home together - the warmest
					day we have had for weeks. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020204" type="Entry">
				<p><title> Tuesday, Feb. 4.</title></p>
				<p> While we were at breakfast the Quibells arrived, with very long faces, saying
					Mrs. Quibell’s young niece in Cairo, just out from Scotland was very ill with
					dysentery - and that she had to return to Cairo that night - and so she cannot
					go with us to Aswan as she intended to her great disappointment. We were all
					most dismal over it. Then Mrs. Tytus came - and we sat chatting on the deck most
					of the morning, saying how nice it was to have it warm. Then I wrote letters.
					Mrs. Tytus came to tea, and the Quibells - and Mr. Aders, Mr. Newberry’s
					brother-in-law. Then poor Mrs. Quibell said goodbye - and Mr. Q. returned from
					the station to us, as he is to go with us in her place - he being yet too weak
					from illness to go to work again - we get off tomorrow if wind is favorable.
				</p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020205" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Erment - 13 miles. Wednesday, Feb. 5. </title></p>
				<p> We got away this morning at 9 o’clock with a little breeze, which soon died out,
					and we have been scrapping along the whole day - and finally pulled to the
					anchor almost up to Erment. It has been the warmest day of the year -
					deliciously warm. It is a strange thing that just a year ago today, we left
					Luxor for Aswan - and had the same experience - reaching Erment at the same
					time. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020206" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Thursday, Feb. 6. 23-1/2 miles.</title></p>
				<p>We seem to be matching our record of last year - for tonight we are lying very
					near to the spot where we were tied last year. A light wind most of the day,
					increasing in the afternoon. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020207" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Friday, Feb. 7. 36 miles.</title></p>
				<p>We started with quite a good wind at 7 o’clock this morning - and drew up at El
					Kab just as we were finishing lunch. Found the Istar here, on her downward
					journey, as well as Parker’s boat the Sa ‘fa. Mr. Somers-Clarke came over at
					once, bringing some letters for Mr. Quibell, which determined him to leave us
					and return to Cairo the next day. So he went over to stay with Somers-Clarke the
					night. So sorry to have him go - Mr. Sayce also came and made us a visit - and
					wanted us to stop for tea - but the wind was too good - we are about 3 miles
					above Edfou. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020208" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Saturday, Feb. 8. 40 miles.</title></p>
				<p>We started out about 8 this morning - and soon overtook the Strange Hathor - the
					Thames ahead of us - day very warm. Passed the Seven Hathors going down - and
					also the Gazelle - also down. A very good wind - tied up at 6 o’clock - 3 miles
					above Kom Ombo. The ruin looked beautiful as we passed. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020209" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Sunday - Quinquagesima - Feb. 9. 24 miles. </title></p>
				<p>Aswan - arrived about 4 o’clock in a piping heat - decidedly the hottest day yet.
					Came to our mooring place of last year, a little south of Kitchener’s island.
					Rowed around the island and went to the post office. What a delicious dry air
					this! and soft and exhilarating - in spite of the heat. Coming home we discerned
					the faintest little silver thread of a new moon in the warm brilliant sky. Now
					at 10 p.m. the air is sweetly fresh and cool. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020210" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Monday, Feb. 10. </title></p>
				<p> A very, very hot day. I have not been off the boat - and have felt rather done
					up by the heat. A strong north wind blowing all day. Frank Andrews of Newport
					came to tea, and was most condescendingly rapturous about the boat. Some other
					people were here too. Mr. and Mrs. Christian and the invalid son came to dinner.
					A right pleasant evening. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020211" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Tuesday evening, Feb. 11.</title></p>
				<p> Again at home all day until at 5 - after tea - Theodore and I went out in the
					boat for an hour - lovely among the islands - the new moon making already such a
					radiance. Spent the afternoon writing letters - not quite so hot as yesterday -
					but the wind very high. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020212" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Ash-Wednesday, Feb. 12.</title></p>
				<p> Not of the boat today. Breakfasted at 8 - and Theodore and Nettie crossed to the
					Cataract Hotel, and took one of the sand carriages to the “barrage”. They came
					home within 3 hours much interested in what they saw. I had writing to do - and
					would not face the glare and heat. Henry Christian came again to lunch, and to
					play chess - and after Mr. and Mrs. Christian, bringing me some flowers. Poor
					Hassan’s mother came, attended by the old man, and her nephew. We would like to
					have had the former kicked off the boat; but knew that he would only make it
					harder for her after. We gave her 3 pounds which is all she will have to live on
					for 6 months - even if she succeeds in keeping it out of his clutches - and 2
					shawls - and tins of biscuit and sweet things, and soap - and everything we
					could think of - and she had brought us 2 chickens, some dates and eggs. We
					hated to keep them, but could not decline. Then Yemmie appeared from Philae and
					two or three other natives - and Mrs. Johnson and Miss Bruce, Miss Buchanan’s
					friends, Scoth bodies and very nice too, came to tea - and this evening a letter
					from Henry Anderson from Rome, saying his brother Andreas had died in Boston
					after a short illness - just on the eve of his marriage with Miss Cushing - it
					is so sad - and I went to bed quite tired with the day. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020213" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Thursday, Feb. 13. </title></p>
				<p> A strong north wind was blowing as usual this morning - and we had quite given
					up starting, when just after lunch it dropped so much that we started - but had
					only got opposite the Grenfell Mt. when we had to tie up to a little sand island
					just opposite the Savoy Hotel where we are now lying, with little squalls
					breaking over us now and then. But the night is so wonderful - the air so warm
					and perfectly dry, - that we were on deck all the evening, star gazing - the
					moon so bright, and all the electric lights of Aswan making a kind of fairy
					land. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020214" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Friday, Feb. 14. 10 miles.</title></p>
				<p>We got off early at 6 this morning, in perfectly still water - and looking
					forward to a successful day - but by 10 o’clock all had changed - and the wind
					grew so strong we had to give it up. Somewhat cooler than yesterday - but hot
					enough. On deck this evening for a long time. The night so heavenly. It is
					strange that our journey from Luxor to Aswan of this year has been so far an
					exact duplicate of last - dates, progress, etc. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020215" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Saturday, Feb. 15. 33 miles.</title></p>
				<p>We have today broken our record of last year of this date - started this morning
					at 7 o’clock - the day very hot, with much light north wind. Our men have done
					well - and brought us at 6:30 to within 3 miles below Sileilis. I have been very
					little on deck the heat was so intense - The S.S. Scarab passed us about 10
					o’clock - they flew by us - and we had only a glimpse of them. The Hathor with a
					powerful tug passed us near Kom Ombo with Salah and a large English party. At
					6:30 this evening the thermometer on the cabins stood at 85. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020216" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Sunday - 1st in Lent - Feb. 16. 22 miles.</title></p>
				<p>We are about 2 miles above Edfou tonight, and could see the pylons as we pulled
					up. The day has been very hot - with light north wind all the time. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020217" type="Entry">
				<p><title>El Kab. Monday, Feb. 17. 15-1/2 miles.</title></p>
				<p>Arrived at 10:30 this morning - a very hot day - the hottest I have ever known on
					the Nile. The Parkers, Mr. Sayce, and Mr. Somers-Clarke called. We went to tea
					with Mr. Sayce and then visited the Parkers on the Sa ‘fa - and Mr. S.C. and
					Sayce dined with us - a very pleasant evening - and after dinner we sat on deck
					without an awning - with no wraps and found the still, dry, warm air delicious -
					we saw nothing of El Kab - the day was too hot. Mr. Sayce showed us some most
					interesting little amulets - prehistoric he said - they certainly had the name
					of Neb-ka- first king of the 3d dynasty. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020218" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Tuesday, Feb. 18. 40 miles.</title></p>
				<p>Very hot again - drew up for the night 3 miles above Armant - having passed the
					Gazelle lying opposite Gebelein. The thermometer this evening at a quarter to 7
					o’clock on the cabana stood at 95. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020219" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Wednesday, Feb. 19.</title></p>
				<p> Reached Luxor at 10:30 A.M. 4 days and a quarter from Aswan - counting our stop
					at El Kab. Theodore went across to Carter’s this afternoon. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020220" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Thursday, Feb. 20. </title></p>
				<p> Theodore, Nettie and I went across to the Palace this afternoon and took tea.
					Newberry joined us. Carter lunched with us and is staying with us. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020221" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Friday, Feb. 21.</title></p>
				<p> Theodore and I dined this evening with Mrs. Tytus. Mr. Carter is still with us.
					The Crown Prince of Siam with his suite arrived in Luxor today - and Carter is
					obliged to dance attendance upon him, in his official character. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020222" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Saturday, Feb. 22.</title></p>
				<p> Every one else went over to Carter’s house this afternoon to see two mummies Mr.
					Newberry found in one of the tombs he is excavating for Theodore. It was so hot,
					and the idea of a mummy did not allure me. Mrs. Tytus, Bob, and Mr. Varley dined
					with us. The nights are beautiful with the full moon. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020223" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Sunday, 2nd in Lent. Feb. 23d.</title></p>
				<p> A very hot strange day - the sun hardly shining and a thick thunderous haze in
					the air. We began the day with Mr. Newberry to breakfast, and he stayed all the
					morning and to lunch. The rest of the family, Mr. and Mrs. Gardiner, and Miss
					Appleby also lunched with us. Miss Lamb and Mrs. Goodwin came to tea - and
					Newberry to dinner - a pleasant evening - but I am very tired. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020224" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Monday, Feb. 24.</title></p>
				<p> A day of wind and sand. Did not stir from the boat, though Theodore went across
					to Carters to tea. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020225" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Tuesday, Feb. 25.</title></p>
				<p> Theodore and Nettie went across to the Tombs of the Kings, and met Carter and
					Newberry and Mr. Varley for lunch, and to open the tomb Mr. Carter’s workmen
					have been busy with for some days which he is opening for Theodore. A great deal
					had been expected of this tomb. But it was found to be quite full of water - and
					the beautiful coffin had quite mouldered, as well as the mummy. Fragments of
					very fine alabaster canopic jars and other things with fine hieroglyphs and one
					strange black scarab of good size. For the first time the new electric light was
					turned on the tomb of Sety - and revealed undreamed of effects and beauties.
					Miss Buchanan and Miss Bell came to tea with me by appointment and I had a very
					interesting visit - discussing with them about Nubin, their school and its work
					and objects. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020226" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Wednesday, Feb. 26. </title></p>
				<p> Had a charming ride to the Palace where we had tea with Newberry - thence to
					Medinet Habu and home across the lovely barley fields - now in full head. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020227" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Thursday, Feb. 27.</title></p>
				<p> A very warm morning - Nettie and I went over to the Istar to see Mr. Sayce - who
					is a prisoner with a bad foot. He fell down the shaft of one of his 12 dynasty
					tombs at El Kab the other day, and is now in the doctor’s hands. Then we stopped
					at the Scarab to see Mrs. Tytus. The wind was strong and air delicous as we
					rowed up the river again - but as we left the Scarab, it had increased almost to
					a hurricane , and looking back to where the Istar is lying opposite Luxor, with
					the Strange Hathor and the steamer Oonas with the Schuylers on board, we saw
					them smothered in dust and sand - and soon after we got home, the Oonas came up
					the river and stopped just in front of us, at 4 o’clock this afternoon we went
					across to have tea with Carter - such a pleasant visit - Newberry was there - we
					had tea as usual on the terrace and the young donkey San Toy was roaming about
					the compound - and much interested in us. Carter showed us some of his beautiful
					drawings before we left. It was past 6 o’clock when we reached home, and Miss
					Buchanan was here - and we settled about Nubia - who after 3 weeks now at school
					shows such aptitude and cleverness that she is to live there. As her father and
					mother are dead, and she has only a precarious home with a married sister, I do
					not hesitate about this - and the girl herself seems delighted. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020228" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Friday, Feb. 28.</title></p>
				<p> We were to go to the Murches to tea this afternoon, but there was such a gale
					blowing that we gave it up, and sent excuses. Mrs. Tytus and Bob were here to
					tea. Mr. Carter and Newberry here to dinner. Mr. Schuyler called. Carter stayed
					all night. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020301" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Saturday, March 1st. </title></p>
				<p> We expected to start down this morning but the north wind began howling again
					and has not stopped. All the charitable retainers were on hand this morning -
					donkey boys - Saleel - blind man -- Nubia etc. I sent for Nubia to come on deck
					and gave her breakfast there. Our awnings are all down - everything ready and
					waiting for wind to drop - Carter went off to Aswan to inspect one of Lady Wm.
					Cecil’s tombs. Newberry came to lunch. Bob and Mrs. Tytus to say again goodbye!
					A quiet evening - and a nice one! </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020302" type="Entry">
				<p><title>2n Sunday in Lent. March 2.</title></p>
				<p> At 7 o’clock this morning when I heard the men beginning to make ready to start,
					I drew my curtain aside, I found Nubia sitting on the bank and in a few moments
					Achmed, and Said, the black dog, and all waiting sadly to see us off. The river
					was a mirror, but we had hardly passed the town when a light wind from the north
					came, and then grew stronger, in the face of which we have rowed and floated all
					day and are lying below Magadah about 2 miles - having made 24 miles. I was
					sorry to leave the splendid Theban Mountains and when at 6 o’clock I looked at
					them this morning, they were lovely indeed - all rose-coloured - the reflection
					extending almost across the river. The Istar left just before us, and we have
					been quite close all day - she is lying just behind us. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020303" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Monday, Mar. 3d. 24 miles.</title></p>
				<p>The weather has been a repetition of yesterday - the distance also - the same
					delicious cool air and hot sun, - the mountains with their etherially lovely
					heliotrope tints. Spoke to Mr. Sayce as we happened to float near the Istar. He
					is quite well again - and stopped at Keneh - we did not, and are now about 4
					miles below it. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020304" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Tuesday, Mar. 4. Nagh Hamadi. 34 miles.</title></p>
				<p>Started at 6:30 A.M. passed Dishua about 11 - day hot - light north wind until 12
					- when we had a little from the south - reached Nagh Hamadi as usual too late to
					catch the bridge open - just what we did last year. Are tied up to a very high
					villainously high bank - with the little dahabeah “Memphis” just in front of us
					- and later a gentleman and lady came to call, sending in cards of Lt. Col.
					Biddulph, Royal Field Artillery, and Mrs. Biddulph and we found them very
					pleasant. He is invalided from South Africa. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020305" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Wednesday, Mar. 5. 16 miles.</title></p>
				<p>We got through the bridge at 8:30 this A.M. just after the Memphis - and have
					been fighting our way along with an almost constant head wind - day fine - are
					about 2 miles above Balliana. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020306" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Thursday, Mar. 6. 9 miles.</title></p>
				<p>The north wind was howling this morning but at 6 o’clock we started, and after
					battling for an hour with it, we pulled up about half a mile from the place we
					had started from - so we gave it up as a bad job - started a washing, and turned
					out our fowls. At 3 o’clock we started again, passed Balliana where the Rameses
					III was lying, with all her tourists just back from a hot ride to Abydos - at 7
					o’clock we pulled up to a high bank, with the lights of Girga in the distance,
					where we intend to stop tomorrow - high wind and water making a great noise.
				</p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020307" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Friday, Mar. 7. 2 miles.</title></p>
				<p>With much difficulty we managed to pull past Girga opposite to the Reisner camp
					about noon. We sent a man across with a note asking Mr. and Mrs. Reisner, Mr.
					Mace and Mr. Lithcoe to dine with us this evening - and Theodore and Nettie at 4
					o’clock braved the hot sun and the high wind, and went over and had tea with
					them. The Quibells are now there, and in a camp of their own, and quite a little
					collection of tents showed on the shelving desert, with the great cliffs behind.
					They came back late, bringing the guests with them. Reisner’s work this winter
					has been very interesting - he is making it for Mrs. Hearst of California and
					has unlimited money for it. Tombs of the 5-6 and 12th dynasties and an archaic
					cemetery which Theodore said was most interesting. Mace and Lithcoe are the real
					explorers - and are considered most intelligent - the latter is an American,
					from Providence - Nettie reported the Reisner house intolerably hot, and crammed
					with flies - and gave a dismal picture of it. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020308" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Saturday, Mar. 8. 8 miles. </title></p>
				<p>Started early - but not too early for the n. wind - against which we struggled
					all the day - tying up just opposite the cliffs at the northern end of Gebel et
					Toukh - with the lights of Menshieh visible - very hot - especially this
					afternoon and evening. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020309" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Sunday - 4th in Lent - Mar. 9. 38 miles.</title></p>
				<p>Started early - and have had no wind or very light wind all day. Stopped at Sohag
					- 11 A.M. - very hot - are lying at northern end of Gebel el Herfdi. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020310" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Monday, Mar. 10.</title></p>
				<p> We are lying just where we stopped last night. The wind raged all night - and
					all today - now quiet - today has been comfortably cool with a delicious soft
					air. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020311" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Tuesday, Mar. 11. 33 miles.</title></p>
				<p>A very good run against a light north wind all day. Our new moon appeared - such
					a lovely little thread of silver crescent - in the orange yellow sky. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020312" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Wednesday, Mar. 12. 10 miles. </title></p>
				<p>When I wakened this morning, I found we were sailing finally and would soon reach
					Asiut - I had two letters I wanted to write, but had only time to write in bed
					to Mr. Newberry, about the money for his publications. We stopped for mail, and
					then started at 10, hoping to get through the canal - but the wind was so strong
					we could only float down to a sand bank near it where we are now lying. The wind
					has been howling and dust flying all day. Loads of letters and papers. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020313" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Thursday, Mar. 13.</title></p>
				<p> We got through the canal this morning at 6 o’clock - I saw it very well from my
					windows and Theodore from the salon. Nettie dressed and went on deck - it is a
					stupendous piece of work - this great granite Weir, which stretches across the
					river. We came to a low sand bank in the middle of the river just below the
					Weir, and have stayed here all day - the wind too high to move. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020314" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Friday, Mar. 14. 5 miles.</title></p>
				<p>We made our few miles by starting out too early for the north wind. As we were
					trying to get about one of the great turns of the river here, the Scarab passed
					us. It was too early to see any one, as we were all in bed, and I fancy they
					were. We have had a great change of temperature - and it is really cold. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020315" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Saturday, Mar. 15. 17 miles.</title></p>
				<p>We made these by starting at 4 o’clock but were laid up by the wind at a bank
					near the town of Hawatkah, 4 miles from Manfalout. Since then the wind has
					raged, and is still roaring and whistling. S.S. “Rameses the Great” and “Tewfih”
					passed down - and the dahabeah “Hope”, german flag, with a tug. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020316" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Sunday, Mar. 16. 5th Sunday in Lent.</title></p>
				<p> We had a great gale last night, and today has been really cold with not a gleam
					of sunlight since early morning. Started at 6 - and made about 3 miles - then
					stopped and waited for the wind to fall - started again after some hours, and
					have come just one more mile making in all 4 miles. It has been threatening rain
					all day, and some drops did fall this afternoon - but the sky is very overcast
					this evening. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020317" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Monday, Mar. 17th. 35-1/2 miles.</title></p>
				<p>Our best day - got away early from the landing near Manfalout - and rowing and
					sailing brought up here at Mellawie at 7 o’clock. The wind came lightly from the
					south this afternoon - got past the Gebel Abu-Feda by 11 o’clock, in fortunately
					quiet weather. Came across the “Sa’fa” hard and fast upon the sand at one
					o’clock - dropped anchor and sent our men across to help them, and in less than
					an hour they were off. The day has been a great contrast to yesterday - very
					Khamseeny- very hot - the sky overclouded. From 5 o’clock after we had had our
					tea on deck, until we tied up, it was something especially lovely. No sun, and
					that subdued stillness that seems to belong to such a condition, - almost a
					feeling of rain in the air - the mild breeze carried us smoothly and
					mysteriously along, the flocks and herds all coming down to the river for their
					last drink, the little kids and lambs now so plentiful, crying out like babies -
					“and all the land had rest”. It was a heavenly evening. Theodore has sent a man
					across the fields to the R.R. station, with a telegram for Mrs. Quibell at
					Girga, asking her to join us at Minia, day after tomorrow. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020318" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Tuesday, Mar. 18th. 12 miles.</title></p>
				<p>The north wind got up before we did this morning, and we worked hard to make out
					6 miles to Rhodah, then we lingered until this afternoon when we made 6 miles
					more, are we think within 4-5 miles from Beni Hassan. A cool day - and not
					clear. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020319" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Wednesday, Mar. 19th. 11 miles. </title></p>
				<p>From 6 o’clock until 9:30 we had 3 hours and a half of good rowing - since then
					the wind has been blowing “like the debbil” as Salah says. Passed Beni Hassan
					late this P.M. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020320" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Thursday, Mar. 20. 7-1/2 miles.</title></p>
				<p>Made our few miles before 9:30 - when the north wind fell suddenly upon us, and
					has raged ever since. We are within a mile of Minia, and sent the Dervish in the
					town for our mail and with a note for Mrs. Quibell, hoping she was waiting
					there; but a letter from her stated she had gone back to Cairo, but would join
					us at Benisoof. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020321" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Friday, Mar. 21st. 24 miles.</title></p>
				<p>Came along splendidly in quiet weather until 12:30 when we were forced to the
					bank by the n. wind, where we are now lying. A heavenly day - and such cloudless
					nights with a moon nearly full - what beauty these Egyptian nights have! </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020322" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Saturday, Mar. 22, 28 miles.</title></p>
				<p>A very good record for such a day of continued n. wind. We have not once tied up,
					but have floated between rowing with the plank out and are now lying at
					Maghagah. We passed 5-6 miles from here one of the Cooks postal boats,
					Amenartis, hard upon the sand with many gyassas about her, filled with her
					cargoe. Soon after, she got off. The Anglo-American steamer has pulled in ahead
					of us - the last big steamer on the river, I think. The afternoon had such
					strange, unrivalled beauty. We passed the town of Sharona, with such splendid
					palms - and pleasant looking houses - and find fields - such evening light on
					the great bald cliffs beyond the valley - and the full moon in the heavens
					above. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020323" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Sunday before Easter: Mar. 23. 23 miles.</title></p>
				<p>The usual history of the day - battling with the wind - but it fell with the
					sunset, and the moon being at the full, we rowed until 9 o’clock and pulled up
					opposite Bibeh. The river has been very difficult - enormous sand banks, about
					and around which we had to take our uncertain way. But the effects wonderful.
				</p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020324" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Monday, Mar. 24. 22 miles. </title></p>
				<p>We reached Benisoef at 1 o’clock - in a towering heat - everything still and
					burning - we pulled up and sent Jones and a sailor in the town for Mrs. Quibell
					and in about an hour they arrived. We were so glad to have her at last. Passed
					two steamers on the sand - river very difficult - spent all day on deck, in
					spite of the heat. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020325" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Tuesday, Mar. 25. 41 miles.</title></p>
				<p>Got to Wasta about 8 o’clock - a light south wind. Got our mail, and were off
					again directly. The day has been exciting - on deck all the time - sailing so
					difficult - passed the Ramses on the sand, just after she has passed us - and
					not long after we went on ourselves, where we stayed for more than an hour, our
					men working like Trojans. Had it not been for this detention, we might have made
					Gizeh tonight - very hot and Kamseeny all day. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020326" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Wednesday, March 26.</title></p>
				<p>It has blown a great gale all day and we have not moved, except to work across
					the river to a more sheltered place. I have been quite under the weather all
					day. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020327" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Thursday, Mar. 27: 21 miles.</title></p>
				<p>The wind fell during the early part of the night, and the moon being bright the
					men began rowing at 2 o’clock and before we went to breakfast old Cairo could be
					seen. Then a strong west wind held us to a bank and the men pulled to an anchor,
					and then rowed again, until they brought us to the Museum landing at our usual
					place at 12 o’clock - just 3 months and 2 weeks from the time we left it.
					Theodore and Nettie went up with Mrs. Quibell to have tea with her, and then
					walked in the Zoo, which they said was quite lovely - so many flowers. Baron v.
					Bissing came in and had tea with me on deck.</p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020328" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Friday, Mar. 28. </title></p>
				<p>Good Friday. A lovely morning - we drove into town, stopped at Shepheards - saw
					Bob Tytus for a moment and some other people we knew on the Terrace, then I went
					to church and joined the others later and came home. V. Bissing to lunch,
					Newberry came in after - and when they had gone Nettie and I went for a drive -
					and then had such a pleasant tea by ourselves on deck. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020329" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Saturday, Mar. 29.</title></p>
				<p>The day has been heavenly beautiful - Theodore and I drove into town to Cooks,
					and went to say goodbye to Mrs. Tytus who goes tomorrow. Thence to Kytikas’ and
					saw some valuable gold coins and various antiques, - then home, and hurried
					dressing and all went to the Quibells to lunch - which was most pleasant -
					Nettie sang afterwards in that big hall, and it was ravishing - she and Theodore
					then drove into town, and I had a quiet tea by myself. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020401" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Tuesday, April 1st.</title></p>
				<p>This is our last evening on the dear, comfortable Beduin this year. For tomorrow
					we move over to the Ghezireh Palace Hotel to stay until we go away - it has been
					a busy day. Night before last we had Quibell and Miss Thompson and v. Bissing to
					dine - the latter spent the night here, and soon after breakfast young Weigall
					came in. We had never met him before - and were so well pleased with the young
					Englishman - v. Bissing, Weigall and I then with Nettie went over to the Zoo,
					ah- it was lovely and fresh. After lunch which the two fellows took with us,
					they went out to the Pyramids, returning for tea. Newberry came to tea, bringing
					me some lovely roses. He stayed to dine and spend the night, and Mrs. Quibell
					and Miss Pirie came also to dine. This morning, Newberry, Nettie and I went into
					town to do some little shoppings at the Bazaar. Met Mr. and Mrs. Newman, just
					down from Aswan, and they came to tea, and were very pleasant. We have addressed
					ourselves for 2 days as often as we could, to packing arranging - weather warm,
					with very high winds, and dust everywhere. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020402" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Wednesday, April 2d.</title></p>
				<p>A very busy fatiguing morning of packing. We went in to Mrs. Quibell’s at 4
					o’clock by appointment for tea - and to meet some people and have some music.
					There were several musical people there. Nettie sang divinely. Then we came here
					to the Ghezireh Hotel, where we are established in the big, pleasant rooms
					overlooking the garden, which we had years ago, when Mary and Clarence were with
					us. The house is much improved, and gardens in beautiful order. Newberry and Bob
					Tytus came to dinner - Carter was also dining here with Lady William Cecil. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020403" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Thursday, April 3d.</title></p>
				<p>Theodore and I drove into town and to the boat and to the Museum this morning -
					everything at the boat getting into covers and closets, and all kinds of
					packing. Mr. and Mrs. Newman are at Shepheards, going off to Florence tomorrow.
					Carter dined with us. Newberry and Tytus came to say goodbye. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020404" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Friday, April 4th. </title></p>
				<p> In town again this afternoon - looking at carpets and antiques then home in time
					to dress for dinner, with tea before that on our big balcony - with the grey and
					black crows occasionally swooping down for biscuit and cakes - young Weigall
					dined with us - and was so nice and amusing. A lot of English people in the
					hotel whom we know. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020405" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Saturday, April 5.</title></p>
				<p>A farewell visit to the boat today - and to the Quibells. v. Bissing came to dine
					and stayed late. This morning we went with him to see the new Museum - which
					looks like a good station more than a Museum - a hideous failure. Mr. Sayce
					lunched with us. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020406" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Sunday, April 6th.</title></p>
				<p> A very busy day - a most delicious cool air. We lunched with the charming Mrs.
					Goff - who among others, also had Carter - who poor man goes back to Luxor
					tomorrow for his lonely summer. Dr. and Mrs. Sandwith dined with us and a
					charming evening. Ready for our departure tomorrow. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020413" type="Entry">
				<p><title>2d Sunday after Easter. April 13. Bologna. Hotel Brun.</title></p>
				<p>Just a week ago since we quitted Egypt. Laden with flowers, we left the Ghizereh
					Palace early Monday morning - and found Reis Fuli, Matter, the Dervish, Abdul,
					and many others waiting for us at the station. V. Bissing, Weigall, and Carter
					also came - and Mr. Bachler - reached Port Said at 6:30 P.M. and rowed out to
					the P. &amp; O. SS. Isis, looking so pretty and trim - not many passengers -
					most of them arriving on the “India” from Australia at midnight, for whose mail
					we waited. The first day and night were quite perfect - good weather and smooth
					seas - and we went to bed quite hoping that these unusual conditions would
					prevail the next day, through the Aegean Sea and islands - but at 7 o’clock we
					encountered a fearful storm, and the last 24 hours were diabolical. I have never
					known anything like it since many years ago we crossed from Alexandria to
					Constantinople! Reached Brindisi Thursday 6 A.M. and found the London through
					train de luxe waiting at the landing - and we soon were in the admirable
					sleeping car, with dining room attached. We had a double and a single
					compartment to ourselves and were most comfortable. From Faggie on, the route
					was unfamiliar to us - and all the way to Ancona, it was by the sea shore, --
					the day was fine, delicious air, fragrant with apple and pear blossoms - the
					sea, liquid turquoise - and the hoary, old battlemented towns on their heights,
					with their towns, cathedrals, castles - the picturesque little fishing villages
					- the wide desolate plains - the richly cultivated fields - the roadsides
					brilliant with flowers of every colour, with poppies predominating - and towards
					the later afternoon, the snow covered peaks of the Abruggi Mountains showing -
					and the fishing fleets coming home - with their orange, red, cinnamon coloured,
					sails so diversely painted, that they had the air of huge butterflies resting on
					the water - all made a scene of ravishing beauty, that one is thankful to
					remember. We reached Bologna at midnight, and are established in the familiar
					rooms of this fine old hotel, where we have been twice before. It is and has
					been dull and rainy since we arrived - not a glint of sunlight. Each day has
					been busy - on Friday we went to the Academia, and stayed the morning - saw two
					lovely Francias, the incomparable [illegible] (Madonna enthroned) Raphael’s St.
					Cecilia, which one seems to care for less and less - the more one sees it - a
					fine Loppe. There are really few things of paramount worth in this gallery. In
					the afternoon it rained, and we all stayed indoors. Saturday, yesterday we went
					to S. Petronio - interesting but disappointing. The most interesting thing to
					me, were the 4 rude stone crosses, supposed to have been erected by Petronius,
					Bishop of Bologna, near the old gates in the V Century. The best were the
					sculptures outside the church, which we could not well see, because of the rain
					and wet - a beautiful Francia in one of the chapels. Then to the church of S.
					Dominico - which contains the body of the saint who died here - a sarcophagus or
					“area” by Nicola Pisano and pupils - beautiful in detail but clumsy in effect
					architecturally. Two or three good figures standing on it - and 2 angels holding
					candlesticks, the one to the left quite lovely by Nicola dell’Area - the angel
					on the right and the S. Petronius with the church in his hand are said to have
					been by Michaelangelo. In the vestibule a monument of Tartagni, jurist, by
					Francesco di Simone. The Piazzo outside called Galileo, is very pretty and
					picturesque - with two columns bearing statues of S. Dominico and the Madonna,
					and two important monuments of the XIII Cent. on columns, - the one belonging to
					the family Fascherari is very interesting because of an elegant work of the VIII
					C. an arc of a ciborium applied to the tomb - a rich archivolt with foliage, in
					the corners 2 peacocks in rather coarse work. Cattaneo pronounces this to be
					“veritable and pure remains of the antique. Then to the church of S. Giacomo
					Maggiere, where in the Capella Bentivoglie is one of the finest paintings of
					Francia - Madonna with saints - the child almost the same as the one in
					Theodore’s pictures - and the Madonna very like - lovely - outside the chapel,
					the monument of Antonio Dontiveglio by Jacopa della Quercia - with beautiful
					figures of the virtues - the Oratory of S. Cecilia with frescoes by Francia,
					Costa, Aspertini - those of Francia quite lovely. After lunch we went to the
					Museu Civioco, where we were intensely interested in the Etruscan and Egyptian
					remains - and the exquisite “Head” supposed to be a copy from the bronze
					original of Pheidias - stopped on coming home at a shop near here and bought
					some beautiful embroideries on linen, native Bolognese work - and also visited
					San Vitale, or the “Seven Churches” most interesting - but gloomy, and cold.
					This morning I went for a drive to a Villa Revedin, belonging to a Ferrara
					family of that name - very high with fine views of the town, and the level, flat
					plain beyond. The grounds were pretty with some fine trees - and some wonderful
					Wistaria vines coming into flower - a large pergola, walls, terraces covered
					with them - a great terrace in front of the house - which must be charming -
					then to the Park - which was not good. Today has been a local festa day - with
					banners flying - and crowds filling the streets, and a fine procession bearing a
					Madonna from one church to another. Italian religious functions possess such
					incongruities and I always wonder if they are not apparent to the populace and
					priests. We go to Florence tomorrow. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020414" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Tuesday, April 14. Florence. Grande Bretagne Hotel. </title></p>
				<p> We arrived last evening at 7 o’clock - being an hour late. A very pleasant day’s
					journey, though there were some unpropitius moments at the railway station, when
					we found in all the hurry and crowd that a lot of noisy Germans had appropriated
					our reserved compartment - great vociferation and indignation on the part of the
					Capodi Stagieni, when he discovered it; but it did not avail to dislodge the
					rude intruders - so the train was held, until a fresh car could be brought up,
					which was fresh, clean and convenient and which we had entirely to ourselves.
					Found Bessie and Mary waiting at the station. This morning we spent at the
					Uffissi - and afternoon at the Constantini’s and at tea at Lizzie’s. Delighted
					to have a visit today from Pheobe Clark and her husband - they have come over
					for a stay of 6 months for a rest for him; who looks poorly. Constantini dined
					this evening with us. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020424" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Thursday, April 24th.</title></p>
				<p> We go tomorrow to Venice- and will take Mary with us, and then to Paris - we
					have had a charming stay here. The weather has been beautiful, and I have been
					perfectly well - delightful combination indeed! We have seen the beautiful
					pictures, marbles and statuary and churches, seen all our friends - made many
					visits - received many. Last Sunday we drove up to “I Tatti” to lunch with the
					Berensons in their charming villa - two pleasant Englishmen also to lunch. The
					old house with its corridors, stately rooms, pretty courts and gardens and the
					little chapel is entirely interesting and charming - and the whole world of
					Florence is seen below it. This morning Nettie went about with me for half an
					hour, and then we drove, in spite of threatening clouds, to San Miaiato. We had
					it quite to ourselves - and after coming out of the church, we hung over the
					parapet of coarse and looked at Florence as she winds her lovely length through
					the plain - and at the great shadows of the clouds on the mountains. The young
					Countess Gigala and her brother Enrico came to lunch. Theodore and I started for
					a drive at 3 o’clock but such a sudden and heavy storm came up we stopped at
					Lizzie’s and had tea, and finally drove home in the rain. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020426" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Saturday, April 26.</title></p>
				<p> We had a charming and not at all tiring ride from Florence yesterday - and I was
					so pleased to see again the rich, level lands of Venetia - with their slender
					minarets, and ancient cities - and to have sight again of the lagoons, and
					opalescent waters, and the city of all others, rising from them, with the
					setting sun burnishing its towers and buildings. We are in the same princely
					apartment of two years ago, and we found Phoebe and Dr. Clarke here. This
					morning we went to S. Francesco to see the Negroponte beautiful Madonna, and to
					S. Maria Formosa, to see especially a painting in the sacristy of a Madonna and
					Child by Pietro da Messina - the artist by whom was painted a very charming
					Madonna Theodore bought in Florence. It was very like - and was a signed
					picture. Then we went to the great Giovanni o Paola Church - and looked at its
					monuments and pictures and studied its effects - and home for lunch. In the
					afternoon Theodore and I went to Berozzo’s and after we met the girls, and
					Phoebe and Dr. Clarke in the piazza and had tea - and the rain came down, and we
					had to go inside the cafe. Then we brought up at Orcania’s the publishers, and
					quite late, dodged the showers and got home. This morning we went to Berozzi’s
					atelier and saw some lovely frames, and a casom - which Theodore bought. The
					rest of the morning we spent at the Academia. This afternoon we went to see the
					Benson’s - and found them as usual - such a sufferer and cripple as she is! and
					so cheerful and interesting! Phoebe and Dr. Clarke came in the evening - and we
					have arranged to take them out in a steam launch tomorrow to Torcello. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020427" type="Entry">
				<p><title>April 27 - Sunday.</title></p>
				<p> It has been a day of constant wind and rain - Theodore is the only one who has
					been out - A gondola in the wind was impossible. We have not only lost a day,
					but our chance of seeing Torcello-- and Dr. Clarke and Phoebe wisely decided to
					go over to Milan, in order to have more time there. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020428" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Monday, April 28th. </title></p>
				<p> A very busy day - with churches, pictures etc. A large part of the morning at
					the Frari - Bessie and I brought up at St. Marks at 4:30 - after having had tea
					on the Piazza; the church was glorious, a little too late to see all the
					details, but the effect wonderful - for all the dim harmony of colour of the
					church leads up to the splendour of the high altar, where the Pala d’Oro was
					shining - like a rich high light. That church is a great marvel - a dim,
					mysterious, encrusted jewel - there is nothing like it in all the world. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020429" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Thursday, April 29th.</title></p>
				<p> Another busy day - with the delights of Venice - Theodore has bought a really
					beautiful statue of the Madonna and Child - except for the difference of
					material and size it reminds one of the old French ivory statuettes - the
					leaning Virgin and child. It came from a suppressed convent in Verona - and is
					claimed to be by one of Pisanos. He has also bought some lovely frames and a
					cassone from Bereggi. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020430" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Friday, April 30th.</title></p>
				<p> Left Venice this morning, 2 P.M. most reluctantly, and arrived here at Verona,
					Hotel de Londres, at 5:30. Our hotel is comfortable enough - not cheerful - and
					very frigid. The town looks tremendously interesting - Mary and I walked a short
					distance from here and found the Scaliger tombs - the great square of Signoria,
					the ancient palace of the Padesta - many curious and ancient forms of
					architecture and home by the busy and quaint Piazza d’Erhe, now a market. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020502" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Friday, May 2.</title></p>
				<p> We are off for Milan this afternoon - have found Verona delightfully
					interesting. Spent yesterday at the Gallery, where there are some good things -
					and then went to the great old church of S. Zeno, about which I had read and
					know from photographs - wonderful bronze doors - carvings - grand effects -
					mediaeval features. Mantegna’s great enthroned Madonna and Saints - which
					Napoleon kindly conveyed to Paris, but which was returned afterwards to Italy.
					After lunch, to the Duomo - Baptistry - wonderful Roman pavement, discovered
					under the cloister and then for a fine drive into the country - with all Verona
					and its surroundings - and the splendid sweep of blue, blue mountains with the
					Tyrolean Alps covered with snow. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020504" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Rogation Sunday - May 4 - Hotel Cavour - Milan.</title></p>
				<p> A charming ride from Verona on Friday - with the chain of the snow covered Alps
					with us all the way - arrived at 7:30 - found our old rooms in readiness - fire
					- dinner table all ready, with its shining silver, and spotless linen. This is
					certainly the best and most comfortable hotel in Europe! We spent all day
					yesterday in stony galleries - the morning at the Brera which is undergoing
					great changes and improvements; the afternoon at the Museo Lapidario in the old
					Castle - the home of the Viscontis and Sforzas - enormously interesting - I saw
					for the first time the beautiful monument of Caston de Foix - and so many
					charming and interesting sculptures - afterwards we had a drive. Mr. Sayce who
					came here the same day we did, called soon after breakfast - and came to dine.
					This morning it rained and was cold, and I stayed at home, with Mary, who is not
					very well. Mr. Sayce came in to say goodbye - and sat some time - we started
					soon after for London. Marie Gwynne came to lunch - and went out with Theodore
					and Bessie to see S. Eustorgio and S. Lorenzo. It has poured with rain this
					afternoon. Tomorrow we go over to Lucerno. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020506" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Hotel National - Lucerno - May 6.</title></p>
				<p> We had the most beautiful day yesterday - most of the morning at the
					Poldo-Pezzoli - left Milan at 12:30 in 2 comfortable compartments. The afternoon
					was warm, even hot - and we were glad to get into the shade of the big St.
					Gotthard tunnel. What was our astonishment to find on emerging from it, the snow
					falling fast and continuously. We drew up at the station of Gösechnen, and had
					some of their excellent coffee, which was handed into the windows to us - then
					began such a beautiful sight - the mountains, trees, ground, every blade and
					branch laden with snow - making a delightful fairy land - the great fires
					climbing up the steep mountain sides, with their pointed white tops looked
					positively eerie. The snow changed to rain as we reached the valley level - but
					a wonderful sunset promised a fine morrow which promise sadly was not fulfilled
					- for it has rained most of the day - and has been very cold. No one but
					Theodore went out -and no views of the mountains - hardly of the lake. We are
					off at 7 A.M. tomorrow for Paris. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020510" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Paris - May 10th - Saturday. Hotel Westminster.</title></p>
				<p> We reached here the other day after a not very fatiguing ride - and were so glad
					to establish ourselves in our comfortable, familiar rooms. The weather is horrid
					- and we are busy. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020517" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Saturday, May 17th.</title></p>
				<p> This morning, Theodore, Constantini, who is staying with us, and I spent the
					morning at the Louvre, in the Renaissance Rooms - how cold they were - we were
					perished on coming out - but what treasures! Rain all the time - took tea the
					other day with the Kerbs - he very suffering, poor man. Tom Whistler came in the
					evening. Mathilde Boal in Paris, managing her sister’s wedding. She is here much
					of the time. Mrs. Davis, Sara Buttles, Pierre and his governess down in Savoy.
				</p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020520" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Tuesday, May 20.</title></p>
				<p> The bad, cold, stormy weather still prevails - and between it and visits to many
					a stoney gallery, I have picked up quite a respectable cold - we are all very
					busy. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020524" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Saturday, May 24.</title></p>
				<p> This is our last day here, and we have altogether in the 17 days here, not had
					one pleasant one. Business and sightseeing have occupied us - and paying and
					receiving many visits. Margaret La Farge and her mother made a long pleasant
					visit this afternoon. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020528" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Claridge’s Hotel, Brooke St. London, 28 May.</title></p>
				<p> We had a fine crossing the other day - but I had to enjoy it from the seclusion
					of my cabin because of my cold. Mathilde, her sister and sister’s fiance, M.
					Seychelle-Dulong came to say goodbye before we left, and Mathilde brought me
					some lovely pansies, from “my fazzer’s little garden”. We left poor Mary in
					tears, but she was to go off directly to the old place in Rue Bassano, now the
					Hotel Belmont, where she once spent a winter. Mrs. La Farge and Margaret are
					there, and we hear almost daily from her. Lizzie and Nettie leave Florence on
					June 2 - and they all meet at Weisbaden, and go on to Schwalback for the summer.
					We have had fine weather ever since we came to London - but I alas! have been
					staying indoors with my troublesome cough. Fielding lunched with us yesterday -
					Gaspard Farrer turned up on Monday - and asked us all to dinner with him for
					last night. I couldn’t go, and Bessie stayed with me. Theodore went, and had a
					jolly time - old Sir William was there, alert and vigorous as ever, except for
					his lameness. We like this hotel immensely - except the prices! We have a
					charming apartment on the 4th floor above the neighboring chimney pots - and we
					actually see the sunset from our windows. Everything is new, fresh and pretty,
					and such a pleasant contrast to the dingy old Hotel Bristol where we stayed such
					years. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020530" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Friday, May 30th.</title></p>
				<p> Such a dull story to tell - in doors all the time - weather bad and cold -
					Weigall came to tea yesterday - and to lunch today. Fielding here too - and this
					afternoon Bessie and I went out in a closed carriage - and left cards on the
					Farrers and Denbighs - Miss Farrer having been here, and I having to decline
					even lunch - and not able to see Lord and Lady Denbigh when they called.
					Newberry came this afternoon to say goodbye - and Gaspard Farrer - we are off
					tomorrow. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19020607" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Holland House - New York. Sunday, June 7.</title></p>
				<p> We arrived safely yesterday at 7 o’clock P.M. being the evening of the 8th day
					of the voyage - the longest N. Atlantic crossing I have made for years. The “St.
					Louis” was a very comfortable boat but not a fast one - I had a charming deck
					room, with private bath room - and as it was cold, gray and damp - I stayed in
					my room - most of the time in bed. We cannot get rooms on Monday’s boat - and
					are obliged to stay over for Tuesday morning - vexing! </p>
			</div>
		</body>
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